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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2020 8:52 pm 
Devout Dirtbag
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Joined: Mon Jul 01, 2019 2:13 pm
Posts: 144
Location: Shropshire
Does anyone have any tips?

I've used loads of penetrating fluid and I've got a 450mm breaker bar and it still won't budge.:-(

Is heat or cold worth a go? Or do I need to try and drill it out?

Cheers,

Jim


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2020 9:08 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sat Oct 25, 2008 12:17 am
Posts: 1802
Location: Chesterfield
I’ve never failed with my method and I buy and strip loads of bikes which are neglected.

Use a QR skewer to hold the BB tool in place , and then put the tool in a vice. Then turn the frame. It never fails.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2020 9:28 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2018 3:43 pm
Posts: 959
Location: Cambridgeshire - flatlands (the horror, the horror)
Jim - small thing - are you turning it the right way? You may be on top of it but it’s an easy mistake....


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2020 10:40 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2010 1:49 pm
Posts: 371
Location: coventry
I’ve got a few of really bad ones out by hammering the spindle from the drive side through to the non drive side and then hacksawed the stuck cups in about 4 places just enough not to damage the threads on the frame. Then the cups should ‘peel’ out with a bit of persuasion. I’d only do this as a last resort though.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2020 10:50 pm 
Devout Dirtbag
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Joined: Mon Jul 01, 2019 2:13 pm
Posts: 144
Location: Shropshire
Thanks for all the replies.

Turning the frame with the tool in a vice is a good idea but I need a fixed work bench to do that, also my bb tool is round so can't easily be clamped in a vice.

Pretty certain I'm going the right way (clockwise on the drive side - so towards the chainstay in my photo?)

Will try again tomorrow :-)


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2020 12:16 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2018 3:43 pm
Posts: 959
Location: Cambridgeshire - flatlands (the horror, the horror)
yep...

from the aptly named thread 'which way do you undo a bottom bracket?':
The common threading for bottom bracket shells is called “English.” The left-side cup is a right-hand thread direction, which tightens clockwise and removes counterclockwise. The right-side (drive-side) thread is a left-hand thread, which tightens counterclockwise and loosen clockwise.

I've never been defeated, but by God, some have put up a right struggle...


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2020 12:21 am 
Old School GrandMaster | Rider
Old School GrandMaster | Rider
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Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2015 7:29 pm
Posts: 7495
Location: peak district
Easy way to remember, pedals tighten to the front of the bike, bottom brackets to the rear.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2020 9:34 am 
Devout Dirtbag
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Joined: Mon Jul 01, 2019 2:13 pm
Posts: 144
Location: Shropshire
Success :-D

Thanks for the help. In the end brute force did the trick.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2020 10:04 am 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider
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Joined: Fri Aug 08, 2008 2:36 pm
Posts: 18814
Location: Yorkshire, England
have fun cleaning all that out :-)


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2020 10:11 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2018 3:43 pm
Posts: 959
Location: Cambridgeshire - flatlands (the horror, the horror)
hmm ... well done for hauling on that and getting it to move. Not a trace of anti seize on that, and typical problem of drain hole in BB being absent or blocked. It's a two-minute job to poke out the drain hole but seldom done. Mental note - time to do it on all the steel bikes....

You seem to have a nice big drain hole in the BB, but check that it hasn't got a big lip around it on the inside from when it was drilled. They often do. That prevents them from working as a drain hole, and gathers cr+p around it, then blocks it. I chamfer slightly the inside and outside, then they then work as a drain hole and don't gather rubbish either from the inside or the outside. And spray a load of silicon inside the BB shell, this helps bead the water so it forms heavy droplets that descend to the drain hole and out....

Cleaning the threads can be easy if you use a small wire brush and angle pick, and then a toothbrush and then run a steel cup from the distant past in and out, inching it in and turning it back and then brushing all the crud out. I have some with no lip which means I can run them right in, cleaning the thread deeply.

Great job. Copper anti-seize on the one which goes back in, and a clean drain hole....


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