What would You do?

[Iwasgoodonce]

As you may know, I have a NOS Steve Potts frame to build up. The frame itself was made in 1993. Thanks to Carsten's theory (cheers Carsten, you are a gent) and an email to the builder, I now know why it has no cantilever hanger. The frame probably hung around unfinished for a year or two and when it finally was completed, V brakes were in.

So what would you do? Obviously it will need V brakes but should the rest be 1993 or 1996? Does it matter? Shall I just go for whatever I can find?

 

[jonnyboy666]

i reckon go for 96 if you want to keep it as a matching group otherwise it'll be a slight mix of eiras. but hey, its your bike do what you think is right

 

[pete_mcc]

Keep it 93 and use Mariovate, or IRD or pauls cross-tops, all period correct. Personally I'd go for the cross tops

Use the component timelines on FFB for tips:

1993
Bikes: Marin (Manitou) full suspension (fork legs in rear), Mountain Cycles San Andreas, Mongoose (Amp), Trek 9800 (OCLV), Slingshot, Litespeed Ocoee (full suspension), American Beryllium, Raleigh Tomac Signature, Hawk F26, Monolith, Mantis Pro Floater, Mongoose Amplifier, Crosstrac, Fish Lips (with Action Tec front suspension), Legacy 2 wheel drive, Specialized FSR, WTB Phoenix

Components: Grip Shift SRT 500(7/8 speed), Shimano LX/DX/XT/XTR, Suntour XC Pro, Suntour twist shifters, Campagnolo Icarus/Record OR, Campagnolo Bullet shifters, Mavic 845 mountain components, DT Revolution 2.0/1.5/2.0 spokes

Tires: Ritchey Megabite, Mod Quad, Z-max, Onza Porcupine, Panaracer Smoke/Dart, Specialized Cannibal/More Extreme/Cannibal, Klein Death Grip, Tioga Psycho, Joe Murray, IRC Blizzard, IRC Geoclaw, IRC Yeti FRO, Specialized Cannibal/ Ground Control Extreme/ Hardpack II/ Rock Combo, Tioga Hound Dawg/Blood Hound/Mongrel, Trek Z-Axis, Trek Cliffhanger/Cliff Climber, Continental Pro 1/2

Stem: Syncros Cattleprod and Cattlehead, Control Tech, Girvin Flex Stem, Ringle Zooka Stem, Zoom, Allsop Softride, Ritchey FD/Comp, GT Flip Flop III, Ibis Ahead, Tioga T-Bone/OS, McMahon Ti, Nitto Ahead, Mountain Goat GOATI Ti, Zoom Ahead, Tioga Alchemy, Trek System 2/4, Wheeler bar/stem combo, Dean Ti, Litespeed, Manitou, Kalloy Uno, Race Face Ti, Answer ATAC, Club Roost I beam, Kore

Bar: Syncros Pro/Gorilla, Control Stix Lite II and Team Issue, Zoom Brahma, Bontrager, Kestrel carbon, Ritchey Force/Pro Lite/WCS, Answer Hyperlite, Bontrager bar/stem combo, Klein Mission Control, Trek Sytem2/3/4, Syncros Super light, Cinelli X/M, Tioga DL-2000/2001, Nitto Alloy, McMahon Ti, Marin Lite, Kona Ti, Tioga Mountaineer, Spectre UL Comp, Boulder Ti bar/stem combo, CODA Competition, Zoom 130, Mountain Goat Granola bar ends, Scott AT 1/2/3 Lite Flite AT 2/3/4 Pro and TX 2/3/4, Dean Ti, Titec Bontrager Ti 118, Tioga DL-2001, Club Roost 1 piece, Nuke Proof, Answer Hyper Ends

Grips: ATI, Scott AT-4/AT-4 Pro/Hurricane, Onza Porcipaws, Answer Aggressor

Rims: Specialized X23, Ritchey Vantage Comp/Pro/Expert, Mavic 231/234/321, Araya RM 400/TM-18/CV-7/RM-395/RM17/RM20, Ukai Breeze, Sun CR16/M14/Chinook, Bontrager BCX-3/BCX1, Campagnolo Stheno/Mirox, Tioga Disk Drive, Aerospoke

Seats: Ritchey, Vetta SL/Lite Gel, Selle Italia Turbo/Flite, Avocet Racing, Specialized Pro Long, Selle Italia Flite Evolution Carbon, Vetta Turbo, Marin Lite, Avocet Ti, Vetta Gel, Spectre Ti, Selle San Marco Pro, Velo Bontrager, Trek System 1/2, Specialized Pro Long, Avocet O2, Odyssey Svelte, Selle San Marco Bontrager Ti/ XO1/C40/Cro Mo

Pedals: Odyssey Svelte, Suntour MKS clipless, Shimano XT(737)/DX(535) clipless, Look MP-90, Suntour XC Pro/Expert, SR Low Fat/Comp, Tioga Surefoot VI, Shimano Deore XT/DX/LX, Spectre Comp, Grafton Speed Traps, Time Extreme, Speedplay Magnum/Ti, Look Moab/Nevada

Brakes: Critical Racing (long/short), Dia Compe 987/986, Ritchey Logic, Shimano LX/DX/XT, Suntour XC Pro/Comp/Expert, Cannondale CODA, Pro Stop Disc, Shimano XTR BR-M900, McMahon Power Link, Campagnolo Icarus/Record OR, Avid Tri-Align (long/short), Paul Crosstops/Stoplights/Stoplights MC, Joe's (short/long) Clark-Kent), Piranha Racing Jaws, Odyssey straddle rods, Piranha Racing

Helmets: Bell Avalanche/ Cyclone/ Image/ Razor, Giro Hammerhead/ Prolight/ Ventoux

Hubs: Ringle Bubba/Super Bubba, Nuke Proof carbon or Ti/ Bombshell, Pulstar, American Classic Speed hub, Hershey Ti cassette, Mavic 577, Hi E, Zipp Carbon, Hugi, Clark-Kent Ti (freewheel or cassette), TNT Ti hubs
Cranks: Rock Ring, Grafton, Tioga Revolver, Onza Ti prototype, Magic Motorcycle, Bullseye, Grafton Speed Case bb, Topline, Mountain Tamer, Avid Micro Adaptor, Limbo Spider, Hershey

Seatpost: Syncros Ti/Gorilla, Control Tech, Ringle Moby Post, Zoom, USE and suspension. Ritchey FD, Fast Feather, Kingsberry/Ti, Dean Ti, Kalloy Uno, Kore Lite, Dirt Research, Control Tech

Headset: Thread Head, Dia Compe Ahead, Ritchey Logic Comp/Expert, Chris King, Onza Mongo/II, Joe Murray Impact, American Classic Airlock
Other: Rek Tek Ti cogs, Action Tec Ti cogs

Forks: Trek Shock Wave/Mogul/Black Diamond, Marzocchi XC400, Manitou 2, Rock Shox Quadra/Mag 21/ Mag10 (non-adjust) (new retention nubs), Scott Uni Shock S/VR/LF, Specialized Future Shock/FSX, Tange Shock Blades, Tange Struts, Ritchey Logic, Tange Switch Blade, Girvin Pro Forx, Girvin Vector/Pro Forx, Answer Manitou II, Answer M Sport, Joe Murray Project Two Ti, Cannondale Delta V, SR Duo Track, RST 400, Marzocchi PF 1/ XC100/XC200/ XC250/XC300/ XC400/XC 500/EGS, Specialized FS/SE/FSX, Funk, IRD, Joe Murray Z-Link, Halson Inversion, Action Tec, McMahon Shaka,

 

[kaiser]

Is period authenticity important to you? Ultimately it will be your bike, so do you find yourself a strict restorer or are you more relaxed about the detail. If I had too choose I would be more inclined to build the bike by looks rather than period correctness, particularly as your only taking about a difference of 3 years. e.g I wouldn't just fit components from 93 because I felt I had too, especially if a groupo/part from 94,95...looked better and suited the frame. Do you have a pic of the frame?

 

[Iwasgoodonce]

Is period authenticity important to you? Do you have a pic of the frame?

Not really important. I've never had V brakes before. I went from cantilevers to Magura HS brakes. Here's a not very good picture:

 

[Carsten]

my choice would be shimano XT M737 parts and the XT m739 Vbrakes which were introduced in 96. the M737 remained pretty much unchanged from its introduction in 93 until it was updated partly in 97. the parts really match nicely design wise.

i admit though that it's my favourite group for a rider anyways. not really fancy but your Potts was meant more as a workhorse anyways so i think it would be a good fit.

but Paul crosstop would be nice too.

did you get info on the seat post clamp?

cheers, Carsten

 

[Iwasgoodonce]

Carsten, Steve replied with the following regarding the clamp:

"The seat tube pinch bolt looks to be a 6mmX 1.0 bolt, and the seat tube size I believe is a 27.2."

I think I like the workhorse tab and will probably mix XT and XTR.

 

[Iwasgoodonce]

Pete_mcc, thanks for all that detail. I have copied it and save for future reference.

 

[one-eyed_jim]

I'd say get as much WTB on it as you can - Greaseguard hubs, or Phil Wood. Ritchey Logic cranks. Workmanlike American stuff.

And that long steerer would be perfect for a Dirt Drop.

 

[Carsten]

Carsten, Steve replied with the following regarding the clamp:

"The seat tube pinch bolt looks to be a 6mmX 1.0 bolt, and the seat tube size I believe is a 27.2."

I think I like the workhorse tab and will probably mix XT and XTR.

seat tube might be 27.2 but might also be 27.0 or 26.8. he told me 27.2 for my frame too but it turned out to be a Ritchey seat tube with 27.0 diameter.

so there's nothing missing on the seat tube clamp? just use a pinch bolt and that's it?

carsten