LongboardSi
Senior Retro Guru
... when I've finished polishing up the old Zaskar I've just bought.
Opinions and tips welcomed
Opinions and tips welcomed
to lacquer or not to lacquer - that is the question?
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LongboardSi
Senior Retro Guru
tintin40":2j6fnfvi said:
Nooooo - it's an early Zaskar with U-brake mounts - has to be shiny silver - not paint, although on most bikes it would work.
My only worry is that if the lacquer gets scuffed/scratched it'll look worse than just going a bit dull, and be harder to restore again.
I do intend to actually ride it (although probably not as much as I'd like)
Sidekick416
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LongboardSi":260qtxdp said:
you are right... if you gonnna lacquer it, it'll look worst when its chip or scratch..
my two cents.. polish it down and coat it with a good car wax.. should last you a while..
SeeingisBelievingGTMuseum
Old School Grand Master
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zaskar
There is no need to lacquer a Zaskar frame. GT's Zaskar finish is actually ball burnished not polished, (even their Anodized frames were ball burnished before anodizing). Ball burnishing is actually a shot peening process that hardens the surface and strengthens the frame in addition leaving it with a nice shine. As with any bare aluminum a Zaskar left without occasional maintenance will tarnish slightly and dull in appearance. There are a number of ways to keep them looking great. If I'm removing fine scratches I personally use Mother's polish and "OOOO" steel wool. If I'm just polishing I use a product called NevrDull. I've bought and resold more than 30 Zaskars this past year most have been purchased by European buyers on eBay.
There is no need to lacquer a Zaskar frame. GT's Zaskar finish is actually ball burnished not polished, (even their Anodized frames were ball burnished before anodizing). Ball burnishing is actually a shot peening process that hardens the surface and strengthens the frame in addition leaving it with a nice shine. As with any bare aluminum a Zaskar left without occasional maintenance will tarnish slightly and dull in appearance. There are a number of ways to keep them looking great. If I'm removing fine scratches I personally use Mother's polish and "OOOO" steel wool. If I'm just polishing I use a product called NevrDull. I've bought and resold more than 30 Zaskars this past year most have been purchased by European buyers on eBay.
FairfaxPat
Senior Retro Guru
lacquer
I use medium fine steel wool and soapy water to achieve a chrome-like finish on my 1991 FUNK, then coat with car wax and buff it up. It takes about 45 minutes and is good for 3-4 months, then repeat. There is really no need to buy metal polishes, as the steel wool and soapy water do a perfect job-I found this out a few years back from Charlie Cunningham whilst admiring one of his Aluminum bikes.
I use medium fine steel wool and soapy water to achieve a chrome-like finish on my 1991 FUNK, then coat with car wax and buff it up. It takes about 45 minutes and is good for 3-4 months, then repeat. There is really no need to buy metal polishes, as the steel wool and soapy water do a perfect job-I found this out a few years back from Charlie Cunningham whilst admiring one of his Aluminum bikes.
SeeingisBelievingGTMuseum
Old School Grand Master
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Re: lacquer
The ingredients in the polish do help to cut through the tough oxidized spots and the polish is a lot easier on the aluminum than medium steel wool. I might use medium steel whole to remove light to medium scratches but it's to heavy for a final shine. The polish I use is not a cutting polish but a finishing polish. There are numerous grades of abrasives in different polishes.
FairfaxPat":2qtx584n said:
The ingredients in the polish do help to cut through the tough oxidized spots and the polish is a lot easier on the aluminum than medium steel wool. I might use medium steel whole to remove light to medium scratches but it's to heavy for a final shine. The polish I use is not a cutting polish but a finishing polish. There are numerous grades of abrasives in different polishes.
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FairfaxPat
Senior Retro Guru
to lacquer
gm1230126 wrote that he doesn't think medium steel wool works good, however, MEDIUM FINE steel wool does the job perfectly on my machine (Funk) and if you have ever seen an aluminum Cunningham frame all polished up, it was done by Charlie Cunningham using only medium FINE steel wool and soapy water-no special polishes at all!
gm1230126 wrote that he doesn't think medium steel wool works good, however, MEDIUM FINE steel wool does the job perfectly on my machine (Funk) and if you have ever seen an aluminum Cunningham frame all polished up, it was done by Charlie Cunningham using only medium FINE steel wool and soapy water-no special polishes at all!
SeeingisBelievingGTMuseum
Old School Grand Master
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Yes but you need to remember back in the day when Charlie turned out those first bikes the onlypolish that existed on the market was maybe semichrome. There weren't many around to try.
Inigo Montoya
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same problem here. i just got my marin ift. the frame is in good condition but the clear finish has chipped a lot. gonna have to polish the frame too. but why use just car wax afterwards? wouldn't you recommend to put on some clear lacquer again? especially putting the decals under the lacquer sounds like a big advantage to me, no?
