Threaded Headset - How to

TDIfurby

Retro Guru
Can someone point me in the direction of a good how-to / tools needed, etc for a threaded headset please? Shall be taking apart my first one and it would be good to know how it all works beforehand (only used to threadless ones, and I don't even get those right. :D)
 
edit: that's a good link from fluffychicken:D

250px-Bicycle_headset_exploded_view-en.png


If you can doi an Aheadset then you'll have no problems with a threaded headset :D
 
Get the right header spanners so as to not chew things up and get stuck in!......they are really simple to work on, just keep things in order..... :D
 
IMHO a neater / better way is a lockable top nut - no special spanners required and therfore no potential damage to the hexagons etc 8)

WD :D
 
I did my first one not too long ago on my Lava Dome. They are really easy and I just got stuck in and did it without any prior knowledge, but be ready to catch the bearings on the lower section, particularly if it is an old headset as the cages go on them!
 
Only trouble you might have is finding that elusive point where the locknutholds everything down perfectly without play or binding bearings.
In fact I'm all ears for any hints/tips as to perfect tightening down of the locknut etc :wink:
 
From experience...

1. as you take bits off place them left to right AND THE RIGHT WAY UP ( always cocking up seals by fitting them upsidedown ).

2. get in a Tardis with a grease gun, go back in time and GREASE THE DAMN CUPS BEFORE YOU FIT THEM! ( my record is two and a half hours lamping the crap out of Ritchey WCS headset cups that were fitted dry and had welded themselves in ).

3. Lots of grease ( NOT that white lithium crap ) everywhere; clean off the excess later.

4. Hand tighten the bottom nut as hard as you can then 1/8th turn extra with the headset spanner; then keep it there as you nip down on the locknut.
 
velomaniac":18ylu0z1 said:
Only trouble you might have is finding that elusive point where the locknutholds everything down perfectly without play or binding bearings.
In fact I'm all ears for any hints/tips as to perfect tightening down of the locknut etc :wink:

WD Pro":18ylu0z1 said:
IMHO a neater / better way is a lockable top nut - no special spanners required and therfore no potential damage to the hexagons etc 8)

WD :D

Also offers easy mid ride adjustment to get it just perfect :wink:

WD :D

ps : bin the peg washer in favour of a standard one or file the peg off. If you insist on using a peg washer just make sure you mark the outer face so you can see the position of the peg, at least you can see just how much of your thread it is chewing ...
 
I'm attempting this myself this week but am unsure about bearings as it's an old XT Evo sized headset (M735) so the bearings are loose.

Any pointers...?
 

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