The hows whys and wherefores of putting drops on a MTB....

LikeClockwork

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....I know it's been done because there's a dedicated thread for them on here, which I shall read through properly later on, plus I did it to an old Raleigh years and years ago but can't remember exactly what I ran on it....

So, with a modern day twist now we have 29ers, etc, what wheels/forks, eg will 700c fit, what about the brakes, how do I get V's to work with drops or do you go for discs somehow? Best gears shifters, bar end...? Is there a drop bar with the right clamp diameter to put it in an ordinary MTB ahead stem...?

This isn't laziness, I know the answers are already probably on here in several threads, but I want your personal take on it, what has worked for you, what wouldn't you bother with now you've tried it?

Thanks in advance for any advice :cool:
 
The trick with drops is to fit a higher rise stem than you would with flat bars so you can use the drops and the hoods without being too stretched out.
If you intend to ride dirt then you are better off with a dirt drop style bar which have flared ends. Loads of them around now from Salsa, On-One etc. The Alpkit ones are on sale right now. Most I'm finding now are 31.8mm, though I'm sure you could unearth some 25.4mm if you searched. But if you are going to fit a higher rise stem then just get a 31.8mm stem as well.
Tektro RL520 levers work with V brakes and MTB cable pull discs. You can run mini vs or cantis with normal drop levers. You can also get road cable disc calipers that will work with road levers including sti units.
You can use bar end shifters, but on dirt drops because of the flare they stick out a fair bit and are the first thing to get hit. You can get accessory bars that will fit MTB shifters from SJS. I'm using one for my alfine shiter on the bike below. Other options are Pauls mounts with bar ends or downtube shiters, or bodging things so the clamps fit. The other option is just run ss.


28033891524_75c9e13104_b.jpg
 
I can't see the benefits behind it can someone explain, is it a commuter thing or just because I can ????
 
kingbling":12cwceji said:
I can't see the benefits behind it can someone explain, is it a commuter thing or just because I can ????

I'm afraid for me Clive it's a 'just because I can' thing.... :LOL:

At least, in my head. It's always being planned in my head....may never happen. I did think that there had probably been advances since I tried it with the Raleigh, looks like I'm right.

Thanks Barry for the pic and info, that's just what I wanted to know, cheers!
 
Not sure his is too helpful really given you are specifically asking about drops, but my P7 has all the other bits (700c wheels, disc brakes) going on:

2016-05-27_05-32-33 by sonofprent, on Flickr

I decided against drops as I prefer flats with bar ends- these could do with being a little narrower though.
 
Bar end shifters dispel the front mech indexing problems and dedicated dropbar v-brake levers give you the option of v or disc.

Normal road levers work perfectly well with decent wide cantilevers giving you plenty of modulation and stopping power.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tektro-RL520- ... SwGIRXa5MA
 
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Re:

700c wheels and rim brakes could be tricky, from my own research there are adapters out there that will reposition the brake bosses on the rear to suit the larger diameter rim (think they were made by Mavic but hard to find?).
I believe long arm v-brake calipers might also give enough adjustment.
Anyone know if U-brake or roller cam frames can accommodate 700c wheels?

I'm about to give drop bars a try myself :)
 
tIB":36mup95g said:
Not sure his is too helpful really given you are specifically asking about drops, but my P7 has all the other bits (700c wheels, disc brakes) going on:

2016-05-27_05-32-33 by sonofprent, on Flickr

I decided against drops as I prefer flats with bar ends- these could do with being a little narrower though.

Looks ace, that :cool:

Bet it flies - love the stealth look too...
 
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