risse genesis rear shock. how much oil?
- Thread starter crossland
- Start date
crossland":32mx2986 said:
Not a clue sorry
I had a genesis on the tazmon ive just sold.It had a little oil in it when i stripped it down,couldnt have been more than a dribble.
Use RB search for Tazmon and ask the builders what they put into theirs on the rebuild :?
Phil77 and jimmyswilly are the 2 i know might hold the secret you seek
Well ive Dyna ti's ex tazmon now!
Apart form getting it out of the box the only thing ive set too is looking at the shock.
I spenftabout 45 minutes gogling and found :
http://www.risseracing.com/technical/pd ... change.pdf
Apart form getting it out of the box the only thing ive set too is looking at the shock.
I spenftabout 45 minutes gogling and found :
http://www.risseracing.com/technical/pd ... change.pdf
It should be completely full of oil in the fatter end of the shock. Any slurping noises means that there is air in the oil side, which usually means the seals on the internal floating piston are worn.
I've rebuilt a couple of these now, and have some reasonable instructions, so feel free to get in touch if you think I can help you at all.
Phill
I've rebuilt a couple of these now, and have some reasonable instructions, so feel free to get in touch if you think I can help you at all.
Phill
thats brilliant thanks fellas.
between us were going to change the stansion. the old one is nearly worn through on the top which seems to be common. he got the replacement stansion and seal kit directly from risse.
a couple of questions for you phill.
how hard is it to crack the 40mm nut?
and how hard is it to remove the stansion from the threads onto the rear/ air valve end?
between us were going to change the stansion. the old one is nearly worn through on the top which seems to be common. he got the replacement stansion and seal kit directly from risse.
a couple of questions for you phill.
how hard is it to crack the 40mm nut?
and how hard is it to remove the stansion from the threads onto the rear/ air valve end?
Undoing the big nut is relatively easy, best to try tightening it slighlty first I have found though. I clamped the nut in some soft jaws in a vice, then turned the end of the body.
Removing the shaft from the valve body is more tricky if you need to reuse the shaft, you really need the correct size tube clamp. As you are replacing it then it does not matter if the old one gets damaged, so a big pair of grips should do it.
There is a special tool to help insert the new shaft through the big nut, I managed to use a 1-1/8" to 1" steerer shim to do the same thing though.
There is no need for any of it to be done up stupidly tight when you reassemble, just use a bit of thread lock.
If the existing shaft is worn on the top then I suspect that the eccentric pivot and bushes are worn out.
These need replacing before you use the shock again else it will destroy the new shaft very quickly.
I still need to get a new pivot myself, never got a response back from Risse about that so was going to get some made locally.
Good luck!
Removing the shaft from the valve body is more tricky if you need to reuse the shaft, you really need the correct size tube clamp. As you are replacing it then it does not matter if the old one gets damaged, so a big pair of grips should do it.
There is a special tool to help insert the new shaft through the big nut, I managed to use a 1-1/8" to 1" steerer shim to do the same thing though.
There is no need for any of it to be done up stupidly tight when you reassemble, just use a bit of thread lock.
If the existing shaft is worn on the top then I suspect that the eccentric pivot and bushes are worn out.
These need replacing before you use the shock again else it will destroy the new shaft very quickly.
I still need to get a new pivot myself, never got a response back from Risse about that so was going to get some made locally.
Good luck!
thanks phil.
my thoughts were that the worn bushings might have come from santacruz for replacement?.
i know risse are not the best communicators having been there for the epic while getting the stansion and seal kit.
if you do get some made locally, any chance you could forward the name of the engineer you use? im pretty certain the bushes need replacing.
my thoughts were that the worn bushings might have come from santacruz for replacement?.
i know risse are not the best communicators having been there for the epic while getting the stansion and seal kit.
if you do get some made locally, any chance you could forward the name of the engineer you use? im pretty certain the bushes need replacing.
Got round to doing mine and it's pretty straightforward. I cut a lot of corners by not fitting the new seals as i don't have the tools TAM and just cleaning and refilling.
My only fail was not making sure the damping piston was done up tight leaving a terrible knocking feel under compression and rebound as if the whole back end was loose. whipped it off and tightened it down properly and its as smooth as silk with about 1/3rd sag at about 170 psi and no bottoming out yet on a test ride (it's summer and too muddy to get enough speed to bottom it out!)
My only fail was not making sure the damping piston was done up tight leaving a terrible knocking feel under compression and rebound as if the whole back end was loose. whipped it off and tightened it down properly and its as smooth as silk with about 1/3rd sag at about 170 psi and no bottoming out yet on a test ride (it's summer and too muddy to get enough speed to bottom it out!)
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