Question about fat chance difference

Blitz_Turtle

Retro Newbie
Lets say 1993 is the yo eddy and their titanium bike have a difference besides material

If they are the same geometry, does that make titanium version more desirable for people who actually want to ride the bike because of titanium not being able to rust?

Cause to me the yo eddy being steel is more harder to take care of as it can rust

The only thing making it hard for me to choose between the two is color lol
 
...and price, the Ti commands a much higher premium being rarer and exotic.
The geo is probably similar but the tubing size/shape is much different as is the weight and the ride characteristics.
The '93 Ti also has the outer welded strengthening gussets, so chalk and cheese against the steel Yo really.
 
I bought my Yo in 2003 and I sprayed rust prevention grease (Mike Sander) in the seattube. Rust is no concern.
 
A 93 Yo and a 93 Ti have the same geometry as standard. So unless one or the other has custom geo the only differences will be as mentioned above, due to the custom spec steel or Ti tubing used in fabrication. This determines the ride characteristics and ease of maintenance etc. Steel FATs need to be turned upside down, drained and left to dry out after EVERY wet ride and frame saver or similar sprayed inside the seat tube.This is not unique to FATs of this era btw, Yetis FROs and other high end thin walled steel frames of this era all have the same potential issue. I always did this and my steel frames have no rust issues near the BB or seat tube and are still a joy to ride. Ti frames obviously will never have this issue and are perfect if you ride in wet all year conditions or beside the sea.

FATs are all amazing to ride, famous for their legendary ‘telepathic handling’ but each model has its own unique traits due to tubing specs,’ tubing tuned wall thickness’ and you pay more for less when it comes to the lightest Ti frames.

I have owned 23 FATs and love the feel/ handling of their best steel frames, especially my 89 Team Comp. (I have owned 6 diff Yo variants and my preference is the 93/94 Yos but they are stiffer than a Team Comp and the latter can be ridden ALL day in comfort. I have a Wicked Lite, the lightest steel frame they made and that is also comes alive when ridden. Ti frames top all this of course in outright handling but you can pay a big premium for the finest dent free etc examples as they are VERY rare especially in larger sizes but importantly made to be stiff to ride. This stiffness is in contrast to most other brand Ti frames of the 90s which are noodly by comparison if you climb hard, are fit and ride them properly.BB flex and rear traction breakaway under load was an issue with most of them. They mostly used cheaper
plain guage Ti tubing to keep manufacturing costs down. FAT Tis were eliving and ALWAYS built without compromise with cost if manufacture eg hand lathing butting into Ti tubing. An expensive time consuming laborious process!!

If I had the funds and wanted one ULTIMATE bike for life ( to ride into old age ) I would hunt down a FAT CHANCE Titanium. The 91-93 Ti frames have the reinforcing gussets ,rather Zaskar like welding. The 94-95 are far too rare to spend time hunting down. The 96/97 onwards frames ride the nicest. By that I mean they are more forgiving with natural Ti flex with internal double butted Ti tubing used. This is all to FAT CITY CYCLES custom spec from Ancotec. The 1 1/8th head tube gives you more suspension fork options also. As has been said, “why buy 100 Yugos ? when you can have one Porsche”

Iconic Classic cars are massively sought after these ( and priced accordingly ) days as people of a certain age and even the next gen want that ‘analogue experience’ .Its not all about the ultimate 10/10th performance. Some things are just a pleasure to own and enjoy even occasionally as a Sunday family outing treat.

Budget dictates of course but life is about experiences. Its cliche but you only live once and Kids grow up too fast…
 
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