I posted the other day about a scrapped 1938 Holdsworth I was allowed to have. I've totally stripped it now, and would like to keep as much as possible. I'm posting images so you can see the extent of the problems. Also I'd love to get it repainted. Where it has been painted the metal is fine. But where the 1/4 chromed ends are there is pitting. The old leather saddle. I have Brooks treatment, does that go on top or underneath. I bloody love this, it's exactly my size, but I don't have an open wallet. Thanks
Help please, I've not done one this old!
- Thread starter Jiveman60
- Start date
Jonny69
Senior Retro Guru
Fairly confident you'll be able to save all of that. Only bit that maybe won't last long is the saddle leather because it does weaken with age.
Don't get it painted yet - you might like it as a vintage oily rag special. When you keep them like this, you don't have to worry about them and maintenance is little more than oil, grease and oily rag.
Rub aluminium foil and WD40 over the chrome bits and it will scrub off the flaky bits bit not harm the remaining chrome. Then go over it with a metal polish like Peek or Autosol to brighten it up. Clean the paintwork with soapy water and a bit of brake cleaner if needed. Then give the whole thing a good rub over with an oily rag. I think you'll be surprised how well it comes back up.
All the aluminium parts just need a wash, polish and re-grease.
Strip, clean and re-grease the bottom bracket, headset and hub bearings and they'll probably be fine.
Get some Velox cotton bar tape.
Saddle is a matter of patience and TLC to get it back to a usable condition. Slacken the adjuster underneath to remove any tension. You can scrub it clean in hot soapy water - but if you do this be aware that it'll go soft in the water and you'll have to chock it up as it dries so that it dries in the right shape. It looks a bit distorted so you might want to do this anyway. Lightly tension it, then use balls of newspaper, string and cable ties to make the shape you want. Once dry, you want to absolutely slather it with Proofide or dubbin to soften it back up. Scrub it in top and bottom with a small shoe brush and a toothbrush and make sure there's lots of excess on the underside. Repeat again after a few days. You can polish the top with Proofide or clear shoe polish but I usually just let my backside polish up the dubbin.
Don't get it painted yet - you might like it as a vintage oily rag special. When you keep them like this, you don't have to worry about them and maintenance is little more than oil, grease and oily rag.
Rub aluminium foil and WD40 over the chrome bits and it will scrub off the flaky bits bit not harm the remaining chrome. Then go over it with a metal polish like Peek or Autosol to brighten it up. Clean the paintwork with soapy water and a bit of brake cleaner if needed. Then give the whole thing a good rub over with an oily rag. I think you'll be surprised how well it comes back up.
All the aluminium parts just need a wash, polish and re-grease.
Strip, clean and re-grease the bottom bracket, headset and hub bearings and they'll probably be fine.
Get some Velox cotton bar tape.
Saddle is a matter of patience and TLC to get it back to a usable condition. Slacken the adjuster underneath to remove any tension. You can scrub it clean in hot soapy water - but if you do this be aware that it'll go soft in the water and you'll have to chock it up as it dries so that it dries in the right shape. It looks a bit distorted so you might want to do this anyway. Lightly tension it, then use balls of newspaper, string and cable ties to make the shape you want. Once dry, you want to absolutely slather it with Proofide or dubbin to soften it back up. Scrub it in top and bottom with a small shoe brush and a toothbrush and make sure there's lots of excess on the underside. Repeat again after a few days. You can polish the top with Proofide or clear shoe polish but I usually just let my backside polish up the dubbin.
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