Grease chat

Can i hijack.. my question isn't worthy of it's own thread..

Last summer i bought a new chain.. removed the factory grease.. cut it to length and put it on my bike.. had to do a bit of fine tuning on the rear mech but every change was perfect.. i thought 'new chain, new lube' rather than switching lube part way through the life of the chain and bought this stuff.. the reviews are fantastic .. 10,000+ peeps can't be wrong.. right?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ANNR15G/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_TE_item?th=1

I followed the instructions to the T.. applying liberally and waiting to dry.. "don't worry if you put too much on and it drips from the chain" i didn't put that much on?! ... anywho, i rode around the block with the limit screwdriver in my pocket for fine adjustment but non of the gears were seating properly.. crunching sounds, chain bouncing up and down the cassette.. i didn't have my reading glasses on so just started adjusting the limit screws willy-nilly.. noth9ing worked so i rode back to work and put the bike back on the bike stand and the cassette was thick in globs of waxy chain lube which had deposited themselves between the cogs.. so i removed the chain and the cassette and degreased this waxy substance from everything.. picking globs of wax out of the jockeywheels with a toothpick.. once cleaned, i sprayed everything with GT-85 and used a bit of good old 3 in 1 readjusted the mech.. and all was gravy. 😁

What has gone wrong here?.. 10 thousand ppl think this is a fabulous product.. it cost me £15 so i'd like to use it.. it's foolproof apparently?

Ive been using squirt on my dry weather bikes for a while now. I used to use muc off ceramic.

The Squirt is awesome on gravel, road and mtb as long as water or anything else isn't involved.

The key is to fully degrease the chain , and then add squirt. Let it dry which takes about 6 hours in my warm garage. I then reapply every couple of hundred miles until the next bike wash. If its not dry , it does what you say.
 
Aah.. that explains it, from memory the bottle says ‘leave for 30mins to dry’ I left it for no longer than an hour..
 
I've tried GT85 and it's mucky. It coats the chain in a yucky brown sauce, which then goes black and seems very thin.
I now use WD40. Yes WD = water displacer, not lubricant, but it seems to work ok. It's fairly clean, fairly cheap, wipes off easy at bike cleaning time, doesn't seem to have shortened chain life and rolling or shifting performance isn't compromised. Until someone finds me something better (that doesn't cost oodles of money), I'll stick with it
 
Squirt has summer and winter (designed for low temperature) versions, the summer does go a bit claggy when it is really cold so I’ve switched to the other one.

Grease. At the dawn of the 90s when I got into MTB, I asked my Dad to buy me some ‘special’ grease for my MTB. He said it was all marketing bollocks. When I protested using my magazine reviews as my reference, he pointed to my Mum’s Ford Escort. 100,000 miles on the original wheel bearings, despite regularly crossing a local river ford! He then handed me a pot of Castrol LM grease. You can’t buy that any more, so I now use the modern equivalent Castrol ‘High Temperature Grease’ on pretty much every bearing.

The ONE exception to the above are my Dura Ace hubs which I use Shimano Premium grease on, which is weirdly tacky. It is also 10p per gram! Castrol is 2p per gram.
 
Silkolene RG2 because it’s red. Before that Phil Wood hub grease because it’s green but I realised it’s a very expensive way to doing it. I used to use what seemed to be an ever lasting tube of JCB grease but it’s not a pretty.

Remember my dad having the tin of Castrol grease too when I was a kid.
 
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