Fork Geometry on Retrobike

[Sithlord]

Philip Too right !! 1st time in a few years, just not used to these retro machines with virtually zero suspension !! not had a bad spill for about 3 years, really Shi$ me up dude.. :shock: :? :roll: , had thought after the accident to SELL allmy retro machines :roll: , just might experiment a little, dont want to spoil the look of it, nor mess the normal handling up !

 

[john]

Best thing is to try it.

Chances are it'll ride like a chopper and you'll hate it anyhow

 

[cce]

i rode a 1996 cannondale with 100mm bombers on it. it was vile.

 

[Anthony]

I'd be surprised if the Mojo was actually designed for 80mm in the first place, as there weren't many 80mm xc forks in those days - 63mm Judys and 70mm Z2s would have been what the designer had in mind I'd guess. That means it's probably ok with an 80mm fork, but 100 might be going too far. The 30-37mm difference converted into extra fork length would make about two degrees difference in head angle, which is getting a bit slack. Having said that, AndrewL has 100mm Z1s on his 97 King Kahuna and says he far prefers that set up to shorter forks, so it's a matter of taste.

FWIW, Judy SLs, Z2s, Manitou SXRs all have about 43.5cm A-C length, whereas modern 100mm forks tend to be c475, but those are unloaded lengths and the difference is obviously less when you're on the bike because people run more sag now than they used to in retro times.

 

[mrkawasaki]

Economies of Scale

Why not start experimenting with riser bars first - should set your trunk and head back a little, but will make a world of difference to the sensation of being pitched forwards (esp. on downhills or when braking heavily) - also a lot cheaper than changing forks!

Mr K