exage mountain freehub
- Thread starter Spibblo
- Start date
one-eyed_jim
Old School Grand Master
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#uniglide
Yours doesn't look all that worn. Why do you want to replace it?
It's normally possible to replace a Uniglide freehub body with a Hyperglide one that will take modern cassettes. If you want to keep the wheel, that can be a reasonable way to go, but unless you get the parts cheap and do the work yourself, a new rear wheel can be a better bet.
Uniglide cassettes are quite hard to come by now, especially in wide ratios. The good news is that if you can get the top, threaded sprocket off, the rest of the cassette can be disassembled and you can flip the sprockets to double their life. The threaded top sprockets are very hard to find though.Spibblo":1ie4bs2l said:
Yours doesn't look all that worn. Why do you want to replace it?
It's normally possible to replace a Uniglide freehub body with a Hyperglide one that will take modern cassettes. If you want to keep the wheel, that can be a reasonable way to go, but unless you get the parts cheap and do the work yourself, a new rear wheel can be a better bet.
one-eyed_jim":cdidld0n said:
the 2 smaller sprockets are worn and the chain is skipping quite badly in these gears, it's quite un-rideable.
I did want to keep the wheel if possible as I don't have much more money to spend on this project. So like you say I'll have to get the bits cheap. Thanks for your help. I found some information on the sheldon brown site too which supports what you say about changing the body to a hyperglide. food for thought.
I got the cassette off o.k with the 2 chain whips and reversed the sprockets ( what a great idea, no special tools req. and reversable sprockets) I dressed the top sprocket with a file. cleaned it all and re-fitted it.... Still skipping. the shifter is in friction mode so it's not the indexing (is it?) moving the shifter whilst pedling along does not improve the situation.
I've changed a freehub body before on my 9 speed and am familiar with the ball bearing and cone set up in the hub so I should be o.k changing it.
My question is, am I looking for a 6/7 speed freehub body or will an 8 speed fit, just curious about the length of the body itself?
thanks for your help everyone.
I've changed a freehub body before on my 9 speed and am familiar with the ball bearing and cone set up in the hub so I should be o.k changing it.
My question is, am I looking for a 6/7 speed freehub body or will an 8 speed fit, just curious about the length of the body itself?
thanks for your help everyone.
one-eyed_jim
Old School Grand Master
But with new parts (and labour if necessary) might not work out much cheaper than a cheap rear wheel.hamster":1kcxpegt said:
Your chain is now seeing effectively brand new sprockets, so it may be that your old chain's pitch is now too long for your cogs. It generally pays to change the chain when changing the cassette.Spibblo":1kcxpegt said:
You could probably fit an 8-speed body (the splined hub/body interface is the same for nearly all Hyperglide hubs), but the wheel would need a little respacing and re-dishing. It usually pays to match the right hand cone and spacers to the freehub body, which can make a cheap donor hub an attractive proposition when upgrading an older wheel. Newer hubs tend to use a labyrinth seal with a dustcap on the cone. Older hubs usually have a piston-ring type contact seal on the cone.
Personally, I'd probably stick with a 7-speed body.
O.k bare with me,
My axle spacing is 130mm, so if I want to upgrade to HG, am I looking for Hg freehub body (possibly complete hub) that has same 130mm spacing in 6/7 speed? or is a 135mm hub o.k
I can't find a new wheel with 130mm spacing either.
I don't want to 'spread' the drop-outs to allow 135mm.
I've found a NOS unglide cassette that has 14-28 range, this would fit although my present range is 13-30. I only have a double crankset, no granny ring, so I wanted to keep the 30 sprock...Just change the 13 top sprocket with the new 14 top sprocket...I'm boring myself now.
My axle spacing is 130mm, so if I want to upgrade to HG, am I looking for Hg freehub body (possibly complete hub) that has same 130mm spacing in 6/7 speed? or is a 135mm hub o.k
I can't find a new wheel with 130mm spacing either.
I don't want to 'spread' the drop-outs to allow 135mm.
I've found a NOS unglide cassette that has 14-28 range, this would fit although my present range is 13-30. I only have a double crankset, no granny ring, so I wanted to keep the 30 sprock...Just change the 13 top sprocket with the new 14 top sprocket...I'm boring myself now.
I've just squeezed my deore 9 speed wheel in my frame, which was scary as it's only just been powdercoated.
So it fits. The ends of the axles only occupy half of the space in the drop-outs, they are not flush to the ousides of the frame, is that o.k? it has QR holding it in too.
If the rear mech has enough reach, and I change the chain for a nine speed one then it should all work o.k with the friction shifter?
or is it best to fit an 8 speed cassette and a spacer? ( the top sprocket is now closer the the frame than the origional
sorry about all these questions, it's all rather confusing to say the least.
So it fits. The ends of the axles only occupy half of the space in the drop-outs, they are not flush to the ousides of the frame, is that o.k? it has QR holding it in too.
If the rear mech has enough reach, and I change the chain for a nine speed one then it should all work o.k with the friction shifter?
or is it best to fit an 8 speed cassette and a spacer? ( the top sprocket is now closer the the frame than the origional
sorry about all these questions, it's all rather confusing to say the least.
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