Can anyone age these please?
- Thread starter Pickle
- Start date
jango":1hndrhkp said:2000ish? the big ring is 90deg out
Hawk eyes!! Thats been adjusted now, as I've polished them up. I also have to take the granny and inner rings off the current hollowtech cranks and get a new square taper bottom bracket.
Will all be done tomorrow, and I'll pop some pics of the Avalanche up.
She's packing a nice retro look now
development_cycle
Gold Trader
- Feedback
- View
I would have said slightly earlier than 2000, '98/'99 maybe?
one-eyed_jim
Old School Grand Master
http://www.paul-lange.de/produkte/shima ... M570-4.pdfdevelopment_cycle":19aj0bhs said:
Seems '98 (the date on the pdf) to 2000 is right.
http://www.fa-technik.adfc.de/Herstelle ... uppen.html
http://www.fa-technik.adfc.de/Herstelle ... n2000.html
retrojon
Retro Guru
Should be a date code somewhere. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/shimano.html#date
If you want a high mirror finish and are prepared to lose the decals
use a series of polishing compounds [4 of varying grits should do it]
I reckon it would take about 5-6hours for each crank,depending on how extreme you want to go
Dremel make a polishing compound for about £5,
If i had to do it ,i'd try to recruit a cobbler ,they have a polishing maching outside the reach of most and can impart an extremely high mirror finish
say something like 'it 'll make a change from shoes'. an old guy might not agree so a younger cobbler might give it a go
use a series of polishing compounds [4 of varying grits should do it]
I reckon it would take about 5-6hours for each crank,depending on how extreme you want to go
Dremel make a polishing compound for about £5,
If i had to do it ,i'd try to recruit a cobbler ,they have a polishing maching outside the reach of most and can impart an extremely high mirror finish
say something like 'it 'll make a change from shoes'. an old guy might not agree so a younger cobbler might give it a go
in reply to the crank polishing...
I am a dental technician and we spend half our days polishing things..
you can get some attachments for your hand drill, i think 3m makes some.
or you can use 400 grit sandpaper to start the smoothing.
make sure the sandpaper is a wet and dry and do this under a running tap. support the paper with a block.
once it is nice and even (bit a a task with cranks) use a felt polisher on your home drill.
it's not the polisher that does the polishing, its the polishing compound and heaps of pressure that makes it nice and shiney.
ask for a highly abrasive polish (rouge in new zealand) obvoiusly a red compound. put heaps of time into this step...
finish with a fine polish and a rag mop only lightly polish at this stage.
if you have a bench grinder this is ideal, the attachments are readily available (start slowly and watch yourself because stuff flies off easily and can hurt you badly...)
i have done this at work mainly, polished cranks, levers brakes, all nice aluminium parts (unlike the new stuff eh)
I am a dental technician and we spend half our days polishing things..
you can get some attachments for your hand drill, i think 3m makes some.
or you can use 400 grit sandpaper to start the smoothing.
make sure the sandpaper is a wet and dry and do this under a running tap. support the paper with a block.
once it is nice and even (bit a a task with cranks) use a felt polisher on your home drill.
it's not the polisher that does the polishing, its the polishing compound and heaps of pressure that makes it nice and shiney.
ask for a highly abrasive polish (rouge in new zealand) obvoiusly a red compound. put heaps of time into this step...
finish with a fine polish and a rag mop only lightly polish at this stage.
if you have a bench grinder this is ideal, the attachments are readily available (start slowly and watch yourself because stuff flies off easily and can hurt you badly...)
i have done this at work mainly, polished cranks, levers brakes, all nice aluminium parts (unlike the new stuff eh)
