Campagnolo 8 Speed...

[FINNEY1973]

I keep seeing mention that the two pieces on the attchaed photos can operate across 8 speeds - Velobase mentions that the correct insert is required for 8 speed levers. What's the correct insert? At the moment it operates across 6, possibly 7 but as the spacing isn't correct across the 8 speed cassette I can't confirm that 7 works properly.

Also does RM need to be in position A or B if i'm trying to get 8 speeds out of it?

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[foz]

The inserts are colour coded for different speeds, I forget which is which but I'm sure there's a thread on here somewhere.

The A/B setting on the rear mech is nothing to do with speeds, it's about the angle of the parallelogram, which means you can use larger sprockets in one of the settings. The mech should be compatible with 8 speeds, so in theory you just need the correct colour insert to make the levers 8 speed, a campag 8 speed cassette, and everything should work!

 

[FINNEY1973]

Cheers Foz - suspect it's going to be easier to run at 7 speed or buy 8 speed levers - from the threads i've found those inserts aren't too easy to find! The only picture I could find was a bronze colour that had 7 on it, I assume the 8 has a different number of teeth to give a different range?

 

[foz]

there's a 1987 synchro catalogue in the archive, but I can't see anything about 8 speed in it...

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/d/1 ... atalog.pdf

 

[FINNEY1973]

See what you mean Foz - coloured and yes all appears to 6/7 speed. My levers are different though to those in the catalogue, mine are these and I bought them as I thought they were 8-speed... http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx? ... &AbsPos=37

I've undone the cable and they click through 8, so it seems it's my setting up - I'll have another go tomorrow :facepalm:

 

[FINNEY1973]

Apologies, need to resurrect this thread. DT-levers, 8 speed, job done. Very happy about that.

Not so happy about the RM. Barely a mark on it but it's running dog rough. Limiting screws adjusted for full range so no real issue there. However, there are two allen bolts at either end of the main body - any know how tight these need to be? When 'fully' tightened the body is constrained and doesn't operate properly. Open the allen bolts too much and there's a fair amount of 'play' in the mech - is this what I keep reading about with the set-up of these mechs and the difficulties people have with them?

The symptoms are that in some cogs it runs sweet as a whistle, whilst others are clunky and very noisy. Also it doesn't like operating across all 8 cogs on either of the front rings, which isn't too much of a problem as I don't ride with a crossed chain anyway but should this be happening?

It's a 12-25 Record cassette with no wear, new 8 speed chain and 8 lovely clicks from the DT levers up front. I've tinkered, sulked, tinkered again but to no avail - it's doing my bloody head in to be honest.

Anyone with any tips or experience of setting one of these up? I'd really appreciate your advice if so....

Cheers

 

[agentorange]

Allen bolts at either end are to release the main body to achieve either A or B settings, they should be tight when operational whichever setting you use.

Tempted to suggest this isn't your issue, you only need to change this setting if you are using wide ratio cassettes i.e. 14-32, you should be OK with your 12-25 in standard low-rake setting (I forget if this is A or B). SBy 'clunky' do you mean the chain isn't sitting square on the teeth or is the upper jockey wheel clashing with the sprockets? It does ounds like your issue is still with your shifters and their pull rate.

 

[foz]

Silly question, but do the levers have 8 clicks, or 8 positions (7 clicks)?

I believe it might be possible to fit a newer 9 speed indexing ring in the levers, giving them 8 clicks and 9speed... It's not likely, but if this is the case then that might explain your indexing problems.

Are all cables New, or at least very clean andmoving easily?

 

[gavr]

Not so happy about the RM. Barely a mark on it but it's running dog rough. Limiting screws adjusted for full range so no real issue there. However, there are two allen bolts at either end of the main body - any know how tight these need to be? When 'fully' tightened the body is constrained and doesn't operate properly. Open the allen bolts too much and there's a fair amount of 'play' in the mech - is this what I keep reading about with the set-up of these mechs and the difficulties people have with them?

8 speed came in around 1992 - the downtube shifters sat alongside the Ergo for a while - it was the earlier 6/7 speed that needed the coloured inserts depending on 6/7 and also the choice of freewheel and chain. That looks like an 8 speed shifter that you have there, you have 8 clicks so all's as it should be - see 1992 catalogue

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/d/1 ... atalog.pdf

I think the rear mech you have though is an earlier Chorus model from your picture and description so 6/7 speed. The AB setting adjusts the angle of the parallelogram depending on the size of the freewheel. You can also route the cable to the front or rear of the clamp. I don't think you'll get this to index with 8 speed from what I've read, but I've not tried it myself. I think you need a true 8 speed rear mech if you want 8 speed indexing...

 

[agentorange]

The rear derailleur for the earlier 7-speed Chorus group was identical to the one supplied with the then new 8-speed group so I doubt it's the rear mech. Don't forget that a 7-speed DT shifter will work with an 8-speed cassette as there is an 8th 'ghost' click i.e. it is able to drag the chain across all 8 but it does need more room & this 'may' be your issue, true 8-speed DT shifters which are quite rare will have 8 actual clicks and a 9th 'ghost' click. By 'ghost' click I mean space to move across 8 but there is no end click, if this makes any sense. So it might be worth checking you actually have 8sp shifters.

Here is a useful guide to check which shifters you have. If you look at each insert you will see a number, this obviously tells you how many true 'shifts' each will give you. You can look inside your shifter and count the teeth to check against this chart, don't forget that yours won't be coloured. You will notice that the green 7-speed insert has 6 notches then a 7th after a space, the 8-speed version should obviously have one more and isn't included on this chart for some reason.

Having said this, I have managed to get 7-speed shifters to work well with an 8-speed cassette but with a little tweaking.

Another possible reason could be your cable ferules, if they aren't securely fixed to the cables and have a spongy/springy edge to them then maybe they're struggling under pressure and contracting thus making the cable shorter.