Any headset options for a 26mm steerer?

[Jonny69]

Hi Folks, I've been knocking about on a Russian frame for a while. The headset is getting a bit notchy though, and it's doing that annoying thing where it pings into the centre position. Presumably the balls have worn themselves little pockets in the bearing races. The problem is the fork has a 26mm steerer, not the conventional 25.4mm. Are there 26mm headsets out there? One option is to change the fork, but that would be a last resort for this bike as it's quite rare and I'd rather not split it. I was also wondering if were to knock the bearing races out the head tube and press them back in at a different angle e.g. top one clockwise, bottom one opposite direction so as to move the worn divots away from the centre position and out of line with each other if this would help? Someone at work suggested that either French or Italian sizes might be 26mm. Alternatively, what's Russian for 'headset'?

 

[Excel]

Alternatively, what's Russian for 'headset'?

here you go "заданному циклу головы"....good luck!!

 

[gavr]

I'd have thought you'd find a Shimano headset in JIS size

 

[gavr]

Sorry I misread this - 26mm steerer tube is old Austrian size...

 

[Excel]

here's an old thread on LFGSS that may be of help in modifying the thread to standard 25.4 << http://www.lfgss.com/thread70294.html >> (or the other basic method that will work is a good ol' fashioned coke can shim in the headtube)

 

[keithglos]

In the days when we had to be practical without money we would turn the crown and bottom race a little so that the pits in the races were not adjacent at straight ahead.. This will apply to the bottom races only. Not perfect, but a lot better if you get it right.
Keith

 

[Tel]

also if your bearings are currently caged you could fit loose bearings which will sit slightly differently, may help....

 

[bm0p700f]

Get a headset made. I had a local machine knock one up for a Post office bike as what it needed what totally unavailable. It did not even cost to much I think I piad £20 for a pair of races. Getting the threading for your top race will be impossible but surely the top racyou have could be cut and the threaded part joined to your top race.

I hope that description is clear enough as in my head it would work.....

 

[Jonny69]

here's an old thread on LFGSS that may be of help in modifying the thread to standard 25.4 << http://www.lfgss.com/thread70294.html >> (or the other basic method that will work is a good ol' fashioned coke can shim in the headtube)

It's an XB3 so we're talking about the same problem

I had wondered if I got a 1" steerer thread die if I could recut the threads. It's so close it would be unlikely to run out too far and it wouldn't matter if it was a bit tight. I didn't consider the head tube diameter - I thought it was the same as normal size. No matter though, I've got access to plenty of proper shim steel.

If I did that, what do I do about the bottom race? I seem to remember it is a press fit down at the bottom of the steerer.

 

[Jonny69]

Ok, I've temporarily fixed this and I'll put my solution and findings here for reference.

The upper and lower headset races were worn and pitted at the back. I popped them out and reinserted them, top one 90 degrees one way and the bottom one 90 degrees the other way. The wear is now not concentrated at the back of the bearing and is out of phase with the central position, so it is now nice and smooth again.

However, this will only work until they get worn again. While it was apart I carefully measured everything to check for compatibility of parts. All the race diameters are the same as a 90's Shimano 1" threaded headset so they are interchangeable, as are the ball bearing diameters. The only bit that is different is the 26mm thread, so my recommendation is when it comes to replacement time that you look for a 1" threaded headset with open bearing races and the same stack height and replace the whole lot except the threaded top cup and lock nut. That way you get 90% of a new headset without having to resort to any thread re-cutting or fork replacement.