Another headset dilemma.

sinnett177

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Ok wipe clean your brain of yesterday's headset problem. This is a totally different problem on an altogether different bike. Here goes.

On my alpinestars cro-mega modern build i'm trying to create as much room as possible to incorporate 80mm forks without upsetting the geometry too much. Ok my plan was to skim the lower headtube and use a semi integral headset as shown below to create the required space.

18084.jpg


So after reading the headset description I thought I was onto a winner and bought it, stashed it away and left it at that. Last night when visualising the project in my head (as you do :roll: ), I thought how clever it was of those boys at Hope to be able to fit the bearings and a 1 1/8" steerer in my 1 1/2" headtube. This is when I started to question my purchase and today to my horror the clever headset measured in at 1 3/4" at the cup. This has totally blown my plan apart. With the clever headset and the skimmed headtube I'd of been only 20mm (or sag as I like to call it) away from standard geometry. If I go with a standard headset ie. a hope then that will probably add another 10mm, which I feel is probably a bit much especially with 403mm stays.

Can anyone think of a way that I can get this plan back on track:-

- so as I get near perfect geometry.
- so I don't throw away the £60 I spent on this headset (It's long past it's returns deadline).
- an alternative headset must be of quality (ie. low maintenance).

Hope you can help.


Desperately Mark.
 
Don't think that headset is any good. All the integrated and semis have an oversized headtube to take the headset internally. Need another headset I'm afraid.
 
South Bound":3n52gvjy said:
Don't think that headset is any good. All the integrated and semis have an oversized headtube to take the headset internally. Need another headset I'm afraid.

Agreed South Bound but what? And how can I acheive this as painlessly (in the wallet) as possible.
 
HEADSET WOES

I believe several companies now offer internal reducers, but this unit is never going to fit. BETD may be a good starting point to ask. HOWEVER! What travel forks are U using? The reason I ask is the geometry of a riderless static bike is totally irrelevent, a factor rarely taken into account, it's the laden geometry that matters and I would always run a fork for trail and XC use at 40 percent sag, which would bring the head tube angle well back from static unladen. This sag allows the fork to track the ground into depressions as well as bumps and why forks have got longer, to give a decent level of positive and negative travel. Only Jump bikes tend to be run with maximum travel and they're usually shorter travel anyway.
I run a 140 fork with 60 of sag, so the bike looks totally different ridden than when parked up.
 
I'm trying to run 80mm rock shox reba's. I totally agree with your theory about sag and travel with a rider onboard. But, the reason why I want it as close as possible to original is because I have lock out on these forks, the bike is magic at climbing and really, really don't want to lose those characteristics.
 
go on get the vernias out d tell me the head tube interal measurment and il help you with you woows young man 8) s it 11/8" or as you put it 11/2" if its 11/8 nothing you can do if its 11/2" use the hope 1.5" step downand you'll be ok 8)
 
Forks

Lock out is an interesting one too!!!! Why now do Fork makers lock out at full travel???????? They always used to lock out at near fully compressed, so you got better climbing! Marzocchi always used to Lock down and so did Pace. U flicked the lever then shoved the forks down and they remained compressed until a big hit or U flicked the lever? The idea od !lock up" at full extension is a bit daft really! As CK said measure the internals, I believe the integrated sets need different profile cups too to slide into, not just diameters :(
 
it ain't going to work, no way, no how! Even if you could get the headset into your frame(which you can't as its not designed for it) once you fit the forks they won't be able to turn very far as the crown will hit your down tube as your frame wasn't designed for an intergrated headset, so you'd end up breaking your frame!

Simple, expensive answer is you're not going to get forks on their without fouling it a bit. Either go for a set of retro forks or buy yourself a set of Action-Tec retrofit forks, they will fit into your 1 1/4 headset and don't foul the way your bike handles as much as normal forks. They are in the 2008 catalogue so they must still make 'em!
 
slacker angles handle better, get used to the longer travel fork & you'll love it in time; therefore no headset worries ;)
 
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