A/B/C Type Shimano Straddle Cables...
- Thread starter Tallpaul
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Isn't the difference (A,B, C and some others) just the length so you can adjust the mechancal effect of them ?
Just pick the length that best suites how you setup your cantis.
Just pick the length that best suites how you setup your cantis.
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C = 106mm
I just had to go find it out and a search lead here;
http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
has all the lengths and good info.
I just had to go find it out and a search lead here;
http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
has all the lengths and good info.
My apologies in advance for my lengthy post.
Sorry to resurrect this 5 year old thread ....but was hoping to optimize the power on a set of XTR's....yet maintain the original Shimano concept.- (perhaps NOT mutually exclusive)
They are the m900 verision (longer arm in Front and shorter in rear).
Right now I have the A straddle (73mm) mounted to the front and the B(82mm) mounted to the rear. I typically see the A mounted to the fronts & visa versa but that does not make it conclusive.
I am not an engineer (nor a Bike Technician) and have difficulties with all of the physics oriented maxiumum braking power strategies.
I have tried drawing a schematic with all of the various configurations so that I could determine the best possible method. Still....I just dont seem to grasp this. I undertand the rear clearance issues but I am running a 1.95 so I should be ok with most variations.
I get the fact that the A's should provide more of a mechanical advantage But when you factor in the shorter Arm length for rear XTRs...I start getting confused.
I know that I should simply tinker around with different configuations and lengths (and would have done just that years ago) I just dont have the time like I used to have.
So with that said.....is my current set up correct?
Sorry to resurrect this 5 year old thread ....but was hoping to optimize the power on a set of XTR's....yet maintain the original Shimano concept.- (perhaps NOT mutually exclusive)
They are the m900 verision (longer arm in Front and shorter in rear).
Right now I have the A straddle (73mm) mounted to the front and the B(82mm) mounted to the rear. I typically see the A mounted to the fronts & visa versa but that does not make it conclusive.
I am not an engineer (nor a Bike Technician) and have difficulties with all of the physics oriented maxiumum braking power strategies.
I have tried drawing a schematic with all of the various configurations so that I could determine the best possible method. Still....I just dont seem to grasp this. I undertand the rear clearance issues but I am running a 1.95 so I should be ok with most variations.
I get the fact that the A's should provide more of a mechanical advantage But when you factor in the shorter Arm length for rear XTRs...I start getting confused.
I know that I should simply tinker around with different configuations and lengths (and would have done just that years ago) I just dont have the time like I used to have.
So with that said.....is my current set up correct?
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A/73's at the rear as well. I have the pro-set type (earlier style nut and bolt hanger) and that's what they came with.
Set the canti's halfway on the brake stud or a bit further out near the end. Quality of the brake block stud might determine how far you can go as they can bend.
With brake blocks approx in the right place I would then wind barrel on lever out to halfway or so, clamp the cable down with the block touching the rim, then move the hanger up to get the lengths. I find it easier that way. The blocks will be jammed on the rims.
Finish setting up blocks and unde rthe barrel adjust to you prefered position. Actually on the SLR+ levers it should hit the rim at the point the 'cam' in the lever moves down it's other path.
Set the canti's halfway on the brake stud or a bit further out near the end. Quality of the brake block stud might determine how far you can go as they can bend.
With brake blocks approx in the right place I would then wind barrel on lever out to halfway or so, clamp the cable down with the block touching the rim, then move the hanger up to get the lengths. I find it easier that way. The blocks will be jammed on the rims.
Finish setting up blocks and unde rthe barrel adjust to you prefered position. Actually on the SLR+ levers it should hit the rim at the point the 'cam' in the lever moves down it's other path.
JSO":w86dy2bl said:
Two things you can do to increase the power of cantilevers:
1) have the straddle as low as possible, mine used to be jsut a couple of mm above the tyre.
2) clamp the pads on the end of the brake pad stem thus pushing the brake arms outwards.
Neither of these work with the shimano straddles, but you can get some real power advantages by doing these things!
