LeeDevelopment
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Ach! Have a look at the website, you never know.
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2002 Intense M1 FSR build
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Cloverleaf
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While I'm going for updates on everything, this is how the M1 currently sits (the Boxer's are still wrong). I did hum and haw over some Dorados that were on eBay recently as I'd always wanted a pair but decided that I'd rather track down some old World Cup Boxxers with nickel stanchions instead.
Fiited; X-Lite XLR bar end plugs, the rather obnoxiously large Tioga Nico signature saddle, Nukeproof Ti spring and Atomlab Trailstar pedals. Also fitted are some old 36h Hope ProII hubs I had lying around (close enough visually to the original mk2 6 bolt bulbs I had originally - eagle eyed dorks will spot that the disc mounting tabs don't extend into the spoke flange) built into some Atomlab rims. The Atomlab rims were terrible; heavy, a sidewall that was too tall (so dented) and a rim bed that was too small a diameter (so tyres would still roll off, more so when punctured), and metal that was too soft. That said I generally liked soft rims as they would dent before puncturing, my favourite being the Sun MTX29, but somehow these Atomlabs would still puncture easily. I had both sets of wheels built with them originally but soon swapped them for D321 and D521 CD's.
These are my original World Cup lowers but redone in Cherry red (the same colour I redid my original M1 before selling). Newer wheels and Intense Edge, Comp 24 rip-off, tyres.
GRC 3 finger levers and Hayes Mag levers. My old calipers are trashed and the front one on this set turned out to be a 68mm one so if anyone has a mk1 black caliper they'd be willing to sell, let me know! An M952 XTR 9spd shifter sits behind
The cockpit setup. Glue on Intense grips. I did have a set of these back in the day but mostly used the lock on version but they're pretty difficult to find unless I'm willing to spend £50 on some NOS ones from Jamie at Mountain Mania, which I'm not. My original XLR 50mm Steve Peat stem, and some low rise EA70 Monkey bars. I originally had 2" rise on this rather than these 1" ones but as I had these from another bike (no idea which), they're good enough for the job!
The kevlar covered Tioga Nicolas Vouilloz saddle looks ridiculous these days (even back then I swapped it for a Selle Italia SLR 135g saddle pretty quickly) but it was how I originally built the bike. The original build had an Easton EA50 seat post as did many race bikes back in the day but I couldn't find a good one for this, but did find a nice EC90 one. I've not yet brought myself to cut it down to the correct size!
I used the original RCS 3" Ti spring off this for quite a while as it was spot on for pretty much every bike that followed. I then sold it, rather annoyingly actually as it was about the lightest Ti spring I had. Most of the stuff you could buy from the likes of Nukeproof were way inferior in quality and while still lighter than steel, weren't as light as a very good Ti one. Ladies and gentleman, I give you a not so good Nukeproof one, in a too light 350lb. But it looks close, so it's fine. The shock needs a rebuild and a new bump stop to replace the dry rotted original. I also cleaned the original red Enduro (crap) bearing seals up so they looked vaguely the right colour, and the brake hose is correctly routed to ignore the last cable guide to give a smoother routing.
Classic Mk1 (ish, the true mk1's had a wraparound lever clamp and 68mm/22mm calipers) brakes, with 8" discs. Not many racers used these at the time, in the UK at least, but they ran rings round even the best of Hope's offerings and were way more reliable. The rear 12mm axle isn't right, nor the neatest looking, but it came with the Tazer and allowed me to fit the wheels compared to the 10mm bolt in Mavic. The wheelbase setting is in long but I did use it a lot in short originally.
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They might look unworn but these tyres were true race only rubber which meant minimal UV protective agents so they would dry rot very quickly, and were notorious for losing tread blocks because the blocks went straight onto the carcass rather than a lower layer of rubber. Where the High Roller copied the Comp 16, these copied the Comp 24 (and the 909's copied the Comp 32). I doubt these ones would last very long if I tried to ride them but they at least look the part! I do also have a set of 2.7" mk1 DH tread ones which were some of Kovarik's spares for his 15 second winning margin run at the first Fort William World Cup but I never used them in anger whereas these Edge's I did, they were great.
Atomlab Trailkings replaced my original Aircorps which were a larger pedal but had smaller bearings and which really struggled in Scotland for DH
Something is definitely missing from the shock. This is an early Progressive/5th element frame, partly from the cable guides on the front end which were of the twist in variety rather than zip toe tabs, and because this link has been machined after anodising to fit the later 5th shocks. The original Fox Van RC in the previous generation frames was narrower diameter and didn't have the same clearance issues this did when installed in the middle BB height setting. The lowest setting also originally had threads which have been removed as if used with the 5th would lead to the shock piggyback hitting off the underside of the seat tower and bending. Later ones were machined pre-anodising and didn't have any threads in the lower hole.
I really need to track down a new end cap for the axle. Also in the picture is the 68mm front Hayes caliper which definitely doesn't work with the 74mm mount. I do have a pair of 68mm manitou lowers but they're more Tazer than M1, and I already have a Hope C2 caliper for them.
Fiited; X-Lite XLR bar end plugs, the rather obnoxiously large Tioga Nico signature saddle, Nukeproof Ti spring and Atomlab Trailstar pedals. Also fitted are some old 36h Hope ProII hubs I had lying around (close enough visually to the original mk2 6 bolt bulbs I had originally - eagle eyed dorks will spot that the disc mounting tabs don't extend into the spoke flange) built into some Atomlab rims. The Atomlab rims were terrible; heavy, a sidewall that was too tall (so dented) and a rim bed that was too small a diameter (so tyres would still roll off, more so when punctured), and metal that was too soft. That said I generally liked soft rims as they would dent before puncturing, my favourite being the Sun MTX29, but somehow these Atomlabs would still puncture easily. I had both sets of wheels built with them originally but soon swapped them for D321 and D521 CD's.
These are my original World Cup lowers but redone in Cherry red (the same colour I redid my original M1 before selling). Newer wheels and Intense Edge, Comp 24 rip-off, tyres.
GRC 3 finger levers and Hayes Mag levers. My old calipers are trashed and the front one on this set turned out to be a 68mm one so if anyone has a mk1 black caliper they'd be willing to sell, let me know! An M952 XTR 9spd shifter sits behind
The cockpit setup. Glue on Intense grips. I did have a set of these back in the day but mostly used the lock on version but they're pretty difficult to find unless I'm willing to spend £50 on some NOS ones from Jamie at Mountain Mania, which I'm not. My original XLR 50mm Steve Peat stem, and some low rise EA70 Monkey bars. I originally had 2" rise on this rather than these 1" ones but as I had these from another bike (no idea which), they're good enough for the job!
The kevlar covered Tioga Nicolas Vouilloz saddle looks ridiculous these days (even back then I swapped it for a Selle Italia SLR 135g saddle pretty quickly) but it was how I originally built the bike. The original build had an Easton EA50 seat post as did many race bikes back in the day but I couldn't find a good one for this, but did find a nice EC90 one. I've not yet brought myself to cut it down to the correct size!
I used the original RCS 3" Ti spring off this for quite a while as it was spot on for pretty much every bike that followed. I then sold it, rather annoyingly actually as it was about the lightest Ti spring I had. Most of the stuff you could buy from the likes of Nukeproof were way inferior in quality and while still lighter than steel, weren't as light as a very good Ti one. Ladies and gentleman, I give you a not so good Nukeproof one, in a too light 350lb. But it looks close, so it's fine. The shock needs a rebuild and a new bump stop to replace the dry rotted original. I also cleaned the original red Enduro (crap) bearing seals up so they looked vaguely the right colour, and the brake hose is correctly routed to ignore the last cable guide to give a smoother routing.
Classic Mk1 (ish, the true mk1's had a wraparound lever clamp and 68mm/22mm calipers) brakes, with 8" discs. Not many racers used these at the time, in the UK at least, but they ran rings round even the best of Hope's offerings and were way more reliable. The rear 12mm axle isn't right, nor the neatest looking, but it came with the Tazer and allowed me to fit the wheels compared to the 10mm bolt in Mavic. The wheelbase setting is in long but I did use it a lot in short originally.
They might look unworn but these tyres were true race only rubber which meant minimal UV protective agents so they would dry rot very quickly, and were notorious for losing tread blocks because the blocks went straight onto the carcass rather than a lower layer of rubber. Where the High Roller copied the Comp 16, these copied the Comp 24 (and the 909's copied the Comp 32). I doubt these ones would last very long if I tried to ride them but they at least look the part! I do also have a set of 2.7" mk1 DH tread ones which were some of Kovarik's spares for his 15 second winning margin run at the first Fort William World Cup but I never used them in anger whereas these Edge's I did, they were great.
Atomlab Trailkings replaced my original Aircorps which were a larger pedal but had smaller bearings and which really struggled in Scotland for DH
Something is definitely missing from the shock. This is an early Progressive/5th element frame, partly from the cable guides on the front end which were of the twist in variety rather than zip toe tabs, and because this link has been machined after anodising to fit the later 5th shocks. The original Fox Van RC in the previous generation frames was narrower diameter and didn't have the same clearance issues this did when installed in the middle BB height setting. The lowest setting also originally had threads which have been removed as if used with the 5th would lead to the shock piggyback hitting off the underside of the seat tower and bending. Later ones were machined pre-anodising and didn't have any threads in the lower hole.
I really need to track down a new end cap for the axle. Also in the picture is the 68mm front Hayes caliper which definitely doesn't work with the 74mm mount. I do have a pair of 68mm manitou lowers but they're more Tazer than M1, and I already have a Hope C2 caliper for them.
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Mine is a 97 and had it since the day I bought it, raced local in the NW of USA for about 4 years. Then after I have just kept it stored away wherever, always dry tho. Then about 2 months ago I pulled it out and began pulling it apart. I had retrodecals make the new decals and I had to take the pictures abd measure because Gil was unable to locate my stickers by sight of the pictures I sent him. Don't remember what he found different now.
Got the old MR T just rebuilt and is currently in postage coming back home. The bearings are all still doing fine , very minor dent. Still have the azonic bars and honestly some generic stem that has never failed. The C2 Hope brake is still magnificent and its matching behemoth Hope hub up front. The rynolyte wheels have been smashed and plenty if dents etc so there out, I am replacing them with the newer ryno XL. The rotor screws were impossible to remove three of thembso I had to get creative.
Now that old magura classic rim break I used and it actually did pretty well considering. That poor thing pretty much rotted over the years, so I bought a HS33 and was not liking how that whole look was.
But thanks to this fine group of folks I learned about the hope adapter, and honestly don't know how i never heard of or was shared that information soul many years ago. Just finished emailing intense to verify which adapter is the correct one. I'm a carpenter not a machinist.
I'm not so worried about keeping it all old school, I bought the new hope tech 4 brakes. My derailleur was shot and I bought new but basically the same 8 speed sram, my race face cranks were fine but shotty looking so I got bothered basic sram gx eagle.
And I have a powdercoater ready to recoat the frame even tho the paint is pretty much fine.
I'm going chrome candy apple red and chrome black on the rear linkage.
Here's the red
Got the old MR T just rebuilt and is currently in postage coming back home. The bearings are all still doing fine , very minor dent. Still have the azonic bars and honestly some generic stem that has never failed. The C2 Hope brake is still magnificent and its matching behemoth Hope hub up front. The rynolyte wheels have been smashed and plenty if dents etc so there out, I am replacing them with the newer ryno XL. The rotor screws were impossible to remove three of thembso I had to get creative.
Now that old magura classic rim break I used and it actually did pretty well considering. That poor thing pretty much rotted over the years, so I bought a HS33 and was not liking how that whole look was.
But thanks to this fine group of folks I learned about the hope adapter, and honestly don't know how i never heard of or was shared that information soul many years ago. Just finished emailing intense to verify which adapter is the correct one. I'm a carpenter not a machinist.
I'm not so worried about keeping it all old school, I bought the new hope tech 4 brakes. My derailleur was shot and I bought new but basically the same 8 speed sram, my race face cranks were fine but shotty looking so I got bothered basic sram gx eagle.
And I have a powdercoater ready to recoat the frame even tho the paint is pretty much fine.
I'm going chrome candy apple red and chrome black on the rear linkage.
Here's the red
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