2 rear cogs for single speed?
- Thread starter guybe
- Start date
I do it the other way round - I have 2 rings up front and a 2 wheel tensioner at the back (like Rohloff). Works really well, I can knock the chain down a gear without getting off the bike and just pull it back onto top gear later. Doesn't have the purist look of a singlespeed though with e tensioner that looks a bit like a derailleur.
You just need to get the chainline correct, with the 2 rear cogs sitting *just* either side of the front ring.
The rear cogs need to be spaced far enough apart so that when the chain is running on cog A it doesn't bind against cog B, as it will jump off.
The various cassette spacers in a singlespeed conversion kit will do it. As *MIGHT* the spacers out of an old cassette, but those are all the same thickness so less easy to fine-tune your cog spacing/ chainline.
I *think* I spaced my 2 rear cogs by about 3mm...(?).
I think I used 16T and 18T, as they gave a noticeable difference in gearing but will also both work together in an average length track end without:
1. Running out of horizontal wheel adjustment;
2. Needing to move your brake pads (tho this depends on whether your frame builder got the dropout angle correct);
3. Adding or removing chain links.
Re-tensioning the chain was easy, as I have Paul Comp track ends with the screw adjuster. Lovely!
The rear cogs need to be spaced far enough apart so that when the chain is running on cog A it doesn't bind against cog B, as it will jump off.
The various cassette spacers in a singlespeed conversion kit will do it. As *MIGHT* the spacers out of an old cassette, but those are all the same thickness so less easy to fine-tune your cog spacing/ chainline.
I *think* I spaced my 2 rear cogs by about 3mm...(?).
I think I used 16T and 18T, as they gave a noticeable difference in gearing but will also both work together in an average length track end without:
1. Running out of horizontal wheel adjustment;
2. Needing to move your brake pads (tho this depends on whether your frame builder got the dropout angle correct);
3. Adding or removing chain links.
Re-tensioning the chain was easy, as I have Paul Comp track ends with the screw adjuster. Lovely!
