130mm wheel in a 135mm frame
- Thread starter CTK
- Start date
1. You have to over tighten it. I had it tightened to approx 115mm and it bounced back to 132mm rather than original 135mm. I tightened and loosened it several times gradually going further, it was only when I got to 115mm that it started to work.
2. My chainstays were identical so I wasn't too worried about this. I checked alignment before and after. If the chainstays were different I probably wouldn't have attempted it this way.
2. My chainstays were identical so I wasn't too worried about this. I checked alignment before and after. If the chainstays were different I probably wouldn't have attempted it this way.
Mickeyspinn
rBotM Winner
I find using soft jawed spreader clamps over the chainstays about where the outer edge of the top chainring is and one a few inches below break bridge in unison with the threaded bar technique...ie threaded bar stretches and clamps crush.
Doing this reduces potential tweaking at weld or lugs
And as someone else posted you must reset the drop out faces to be parallel/square with each other or you'll be bending the axle and ruin your hub bearings ...it will also make the ride feel very skittish and nervous!
The final thing is your derailleur mount.....that's the fun bit .....if you want gear shifts to be crisp and sweet this again has to be square to axle.my weapon of choice is a bit of 6mm thick angle iron bolted on and checked against wheel rim edge... check every 45 degrees ..obv your wheel needs to be 100% true!
You'll know if you've got it all right ...does the bike let you ride no handed? If you have to lean in the saddle to do so then you'll need to check it all over again!
As a rough rule ive found on cromo frames the dropout width your after you'll need a nutted type axle that corresponds to the hub that you want fitted has just enough thread for the spread!
Last point if it's an aluminium frame.... don't... Just don't even think about it...no!
If it's stainless or titanium..? Really
?
Doing this reduces potential tweaking at weld or lugs
And as someone else posted you must reset the drop out faces to be parallel/square with each other or you'll be bending the axle and ruin your hub bearings ...it will also make the ride feel very skittish and nervous! The final thing is your derailleur mount.....that's the fun bit .....if you want gear shifts to be crisp and sweet this again has to be square to axle.my weapon of choice is a bit of 6mm thick angle iron bolted on and checked against wheel rim edge... check every 45 degrees ..obv your wheel needs to be 100% true!
You'll know if you've got it all right ...does the bike let you ride no handed? If you have to lean in the saddle to do so then you'll need to check it all over again!
As a rough rule ive found on cromo frames the dropout width your after you'll need a nutted type axle that corresponds to the hub that you want fitted has just enough thread for the spread!
Last point if it's an aluminium frame.... don't... Just don't even think about it...no!
If it's stainless or titanium..? Really
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