Search results for query: *

the problem is sticky mud in the winter filling the tiny gap between the brake blocks and the rim (when using mini-v brakes). the low MA of cantilevers means the blocks move back much further from the rim when the brakes are off, so there is much less chance of clogging. -Steve

i have an old kienisis crosslight that i use for single track riding, disused railway lines etc. it has cantilever brake bosses, i had some wide (dia compe) brakes which where never great, and leathal in the wet. I have switched to shimano mini v brakes - much better braking but no mud...

i have a full 90s Athena, i can take photos if you are interested, but it sounds like you are sorted.

looks wonderful. lubricate it and lacquer it, nothing more.

hi, i am after a pair of stepped ferrules for shimano AX brake levers; pic below.

i have one in black, 310mm, some rbs and a scratch but i think its pretty good. happy to swap ir sell, £35?

i have a naim atom (i used to work for them so i didn’t pay full price), and some oldis tannoy speakers (honky but nice imaging). i am planning to get some kef r3s when i get my arse in gear. all very wife friendly. have to agree with the comments above about treating rooms. well worth it...

i bought a carlton (unknown model) which was in a mates shed fir £10 in about 1979. weinman 730s, brooks b5n lace up saddle, GB maes bars and stem, simplex 5 gears. someone had drilled a rear dropout for the anti rotation screw on the steel derailleur hanger. one day a mechanical problem with...

i use stronglight 80s on two bikes, 28/46 works fine with a modern 11 speed derailleur. i do have memory of problems with the escape though, left crank breakages - perhaps due to over-tightening?

i have some dia compe 251 aero brake levers with “compact” levers which are a bit better shaped for smaller hands. however i would suggest you get some early dura ace (bl-7300) or 600ax (bl-6300) levers which both have an adjuster screw which allows you to change the reach to suit your hand...

sorry all for the distraction, i must have nodded off, and no one; “woke me up before the threads a go go” [i know, poor, but on topic at least]

on the topic of removing the adjuster: some thoughts… try freeze & release? the alloy should shrink more than the steel, heat will make them lock together even tighter. also, if drilling iut try and borrow some left hand drills for drilling from the saddle end, use ordinary righthand drills...

check the serial number. holdsworth serial numbers are quite well documented. -Steve

probably doesn’t help but just in case… there are two thread standards used on downtube shifters. m5 x 0.7 pitch and pre-DIN standard simplex (and maybe huret) m5 x 1.0 pitch (i think) maybr the screw thread? otherwise downtube shifters need a close clearance on the boss. cable stops don’t...

snap!

does a magnet stick to it? what does it weigh compared to what you would expect for a steel axel?

the slab sided brake bridge was used by cougar (though no cats on the fork crown) and mike kowal - i sure others used them but IMHO its a sign of quality. the sloping fork crown is definitely a late 1990s thing. are the rear dropouts horizontal orvertical? if vertical it is another late 90s...

i just put an m5 allen bolt through the nut, clamped the head of the nut in a drill and used a file to thin the sleeved section. it only needs to be reduced by about 1/2mm to fit. but check i think you might not need to do this on athena brakes.

koolstop salmon, or dura 2 every time. i think the athena version of the monoplaners has a wide enough slot to fit shimano shoes. i have some earlier chorus ones which have a narrow slot. i ground down the threaded sleeve nuts so they will fit my brakes. i can give detail if you wanr. -Steve

just fitted a campag record 10 speed front mech to my steel frame bike. its the mech with an all steel cage not the one with a carbon front plate. i am running friction shifters if its relevant. i noticed the mech has two settings for spring tension - by rotating an allen headed spring...