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The answer we are all waiting for: https://ebay.us/m/SnQTwx

Shimano were offering a choice, assuming that the installer would have all sizes to hand, so if narrow was too tight, go 113. That's how we used to do it in the days of square taper. Have a guess, then swap out if necessary to get best outcome. I think either will likely be ok, but try...

Chainstay design can require a longer bb - think aluminium frame with wider tyre clearance vs steel Fat seattubes can also mean a longer bb is required for the front derailleur to drop the chain onto the small ring Pedaling is best narrower.

I don't think anyone specced those awful self-energising brakes as OE😄

I never like to see that much post exposed on an older frame.🙁 And XT posts aren't particularly long.

This rider had the feeling that he was floating Lucky he was travelling slowly, came to a halt as the front and rear of the frame became 2.

JRA as we call it: Just ridin' along. Frame holes for cables... Nice.

got a few👍 Is £6 posted ok? I can drop it in the postbox later Tom

I check tomorrow👌

I've probably got one - what's the thread?

So they are correctly centred Currently 124mm(?) apart If I'm cold setting, I'll do one side at a time - so if you're wanting to get to 130mm, pull each side out (130-124)/2 =3mm Measure the dropout spacing to check progress. We have a big long lever with a movable hook on it for this job...

Idon't think the 130mm frames were ever offset (we sold them new in the 90s) You need to check offset each side to know where you are. A piece of string from the head tube to the rear Dropouts, then measure how far it is off the seat tube. You can use this info to straighten it up and see...

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Then you can buy back all the parts you sold to make it original again😉 I love those 94/95 paint schemes - top kona!

27.5 is still current Your frame isn't obsolete - it's just not what's being marketed much atm. It's a practical, usable mtb👍 Watch out changing from 150 to 100mm Forks though - as a rule 20mm variation is ok, but it's quite a while since much mtb frame geometry was happy with 100mm - probably...

Stats imply that the roads are safer than 10 or 20 years ago But quite a lot of vulnerable users have been driven off the roads - that might include recumbents. Trouble is, they are best on long gentle gradients, where the roads are straighter and faster and the risks to cyclists are greatest.

This is the original Limp Dick stem, for getting low bars for track racing: In most ways, the opposite of these new models

You can make a spoke wrench for these by grinding a slot in a piece of steel, or if the nipples aren't too seized, use a small adjustable. Often you need to reduce tension on one side while increasing on the other.

There's 2 types of Retrobiker: The dangerous, unpredictable weirdo And The cool dude everlasting teenager. And then bear in mind... We're in the recumbent section!

I think you'd get some funny looks.🤣