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Re: Yep.. given how solid it was that would make sense. Oh well.. always worth a tinker!

Right.. i got the sprocket lockring off, normal threading as you say but there was a second locking/spacer holding the larger cogs on that just wouldn't budge and was wrecking my screwdriver in the attempt so i've given up on it. I wanted to ditch the megarange sprocket for a normal step up but...

Its a shimano megarange 7sp

I can't remember.. with a threaded cassette is the cog lockring reverse threaded or not? Google throwing up to many of the wrong answers.

Re: Brilliant. It's a 7 speed setup i'm tinkering with and i'm never more than 9 speeds so i should be good. Thanks!

Is cog spacing standard for a given number of speeds? I always assumed the shifter and mech needed to be matched as the geometry differed between brands but to achieve the same lateral movement. Are rear cogs interchangeable so long as the rest of your setup is for the same number of gears?

Thanks guys. That 3mm estimate was off and seeing the 3/16" was most common i offered one up to the tape measure to confirm, though the frankly insulting proximity of that Campag sizing gave me pause. I did not know that about the grading either (It wasn't even in the How It's Made ep!) so...

Servicing an old qr front hub of no remarkable brand and the bearings look like they need replacing. There's 10 a side and they look around 3mm in diameter. Are these standard sizes or aught i to take the old down to LBS?

Wow.. that's interesting and good to know. Wish i hadn't tried putting it back together so soon but you live you learn and even with the chips it looks 1000% better than before. Think i'll leave it for 3-4 weeks to be sure.. especially as i have to really hammer the bolt in for the bottom linkage.

Whats the verdict here? I attempted rebuilding a few days after respraying a frame (3x primer, 3x base, 3x clear acrylic) and marked it up as soon as i made contact with metal. Seems to be slowly hardening as i could easily leave fingernail indents at the time and less so now but as it as i'll...

ok i was jus a bit concerned about damaging the threads as that sleeve is metal and tight..

How do i remove this bolt from the shock to dismantle it? I've not seen the type before. Gave it an experimental tap with a nut on and doesn't seem to like it. Doesn't seem to unscrew. What is it and how do you remove it?

Re: Re: I really.. really should have a dremmel type drill by now but i don't. But if i get you right then i don't think that bit would help much. If it's basically conical towards the tip it'll just keep spinning off the nipple left on the bolt. Getting the area flat enough for a good whack...

Some good idea's here thanks. I can try and flatten the bolt remainder as suggested for another attempt. Failing that, i like the idea of welding a nut on. Very little tolerance so welding through the middle of a lined up nut could avoid frame damage. That or the drill press will mean a trip to...

I bought a screw extractor kit but since the remainder of the bolt has a peak in the center you can't do it manually. With a drill press i would think a slow progression would remove this allowing you to drill on center then remove with the screwpuller. Is easy out a screwpuller/reverse bit?

There's no cage. The head is sheared off the bolt that's why i'm trying to drill it out.

Can anyone recommend somewhere in London for this job? Stripped a frame and one of the cage bolt heads sheared off rather than turn. I tried to extract it by hand with a screwpuller/drillbit but as the head left a metal nipple right in the center the only progress i could make drilling was...

Just so people know.. Armourtex have reopened on Hackney Road, and the Google reviews look fairly promising. They seem to have resumed their much lauded powdercoating activities. Although having now put all the work into stripping and prepping the frame i'd wanted done i might as well finish...

Re: Re: Maybe it's because i grew up with them but i don't really like the ahead system at all. I like threaded steerers/headsets and didn't really see why it needed changing. its a solid lock and perfectly adjustable to whatever squeeze you want to add. Also less hassle matching gear...

Re: Gotcha. That's exactly what happened in my case so i'll be looking for a clean cut. Paintwise i'm doing it myself so no high temperatures involved.