Search results for query: *

Re: Before

Re: Controls

Re: Drivetrain shot.

It took me 18 months to gather money, parts and take the frame in to have it stripped & powdercoated. Finally took her out for a spin today. I had been worried that too much money had been spent on the drivetrain but I've quickly realized it was the right thing to do as it was completely...

New (old) commuter Not sure if this counts, they're pavement tires. Bought this with the intent of making it my new commuter. Cost me $60. Cleaned/lubed (like mad) and about $30 in parts.

Nah, mine starts with an R.

Re: Just got back from a 13 mile test ride and everything held up just fine. For some reason tightening the non-drive cup first did the trick. Thanks again, everyone!!!

OK, So I reinstalled the BB by tightening the NON-drive side first. I noticed the lockring appears to be almost flush with the cup & BB shell with hardly any threads extending past it. Test rode about 1 mile and everything is nice and snug. I assume that was key step, to tighten the non-drive...

OK, so the two suggestions are to hold the cup while tightening the lockring and as legrandefromage said, tighten the NON-drive side first. Sound about right? Gonna give it a shot in just a short while. Thanks!

Plenty of grease in the cages & races. The lockring is on tight, the cup seems to be the culprit. One thing I have not done is hold the cup in place while torqueing the lockring down. I didn't see this being a problem as worse case, the cup would be tightened a bit more (both are right hand...

OK, after a little research online, I think I found my dumb mistake. I installed the bearings with the cages (flat part) facing outboard. I think the correct orientation is to face the bearings outboard (using the cups for races) and the cages inboard (up against the spindle). I just...

Should I just torque the hell out of the cup? Don't want to damage the new bearings. Here is another angle.

Not sure if this answers your question but the drive side cup is tight and giving me no problems. Non-drive side is the problem.

Yeah, its the spindle which has the play. Cranks are nice and snug requiring a puller to remove it each time.

I recently bought a Raleigh M20 with the intention of making it a reliable commuter. I've disassembled everything, cleaned and lubed it. Replaced chain, pedals & busted/rusted BB. After installing brand new replacement cage bearing BB I rode it up and down my short street 3 times. Then I...

Re: 7 speed Shimano cassette with a "Tracer" triple crankset.

Oh, so I'd have to change length? Didn't wan to throw off my chainline since I'll be re-using the stock crankset. If so, should I go 2mm wider or shorter?

I disassembled a very rusty and frozen BB on my Raleigh M20. The BB is obviously shot so rather than replace it with a new cage bearing BB, I'd like to go with a more reliable cartridge BB which also requires less maintenance. The spindle is a square taper, 120mm w/68mm shell. I'm having...

I just bought this Raleigh M20 with the intention of making it a versatile all-around commuter. I just simply plan to clean it up, do some light maintenance (new pads, pedals & chain, clean & repack bearing) and swap to more road-friendly tires. Can anyone here direct me to where I can find...