Search results for query: *

I trust you have the appropriate Mamit* outfit? *middle aged man in tweed

Steel has a way superior fatigue life. But Flex at the seatcluster weld will eventually break it, especially if the shim stops right by the weld itself, as the metal is often more brittle right by this point. I'd like to see 2" minimum below the weld. I'd suggest a half decent seatpost...

The post to frame interface needs to extend well below the lower weld for safety, especially aluminium. What you've got would probably be fine for light, occasional use, but it's a gamble you don't need to take for the cost of the correct size post or a 100mm shim.

Aye but it's a roadster model with a thick nose - On a drop bar? 😳

Lovely bike😍 The saddle is making my eyes water😵

You don't ask, you don't get😉

Maybe the mechanics torque the bars depending on road conditions🤣

Interesting to note when the TdF riders piled up time after time, they just twisted their bars straight with their hands and knees, then rode away.

Leaving the bar in the stem makes pulling easier. Damage in the steerer, and sometimes grit or corrosion, digs circular grooves in the stem, making rotation easy but extraction a challenge. but if it turns, it'll come out.🤞 Just a case of getting purchase

Is the stem rotating stiffly without pulling up at all? (I don't like Copper slip as you're introducing another metal - and it's toxic, but many love it)

Next you've got to get "the outfit" Iirc fsr riders spent a much on their clothes as their bikes😉

Those flouro colours are prone to serious lightening - I assume its uv exposure but might just be time.

It's over the stem mountain, beyond the lefthand crank mine

I'll pm you tomorrow when i check i can still find it in the seatpost lake👍

Post a photo! If there's any bolt projecting, you can mig a nut on the end of it, (inside the nut) and then unbolt it. Professionally, it's a write-off as any removal cost will exceed the value of the part.

And you are right Chains don't stretch. https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/workshop/how-to-know-when-its-time-to-replace-your-bicycle-chain It's just that's what we call roller/pin wear

We do what we can And constantly improve. If you want tip top performance, your environmental credentials must suffer. I glue my shoes back together 2 or 3 times before moving them on, by which time the soles are pretty worn through. I admit, they don't look great by then, they might be...

Or buy a good condition 8 or 9 speed xt off ebay?

Knobbly tyres lose effectiveness with loss of the sharp edges, so often the tyre looks very knobbly but no longer performs anything like the new one. Many riders will fit new at this point, and the tyres don't really have a part-worn market. Mountain biking can be very environmentally...

It's well worth £100 if you want it. The rear mech, avid sds and fork take you way over that if you needed to recoup your cost. But older full sus doesn't have many admirers... hence the price.