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There’s been instances of local bike shops stocking fake chains. Supposedly unknowingly, bought from the ‘man with a van full of parts’ type supplier rather than from Madison etc but it has happened.

Unlikely second dibs on those.

KMC X11 has been working well for me. Had a definitely genuine Shimano 11speed chain (it came direct from Madison with an 11 speed upgrade kit) and it didn’t last long before it got very rusty so have been steering away from them. I’d rather use a decent cheap chain and replace it before it...

Next up is an Orange P7. Came to me in a pretty rusty crusty condition so I’ve cleaned all loose paint and rust off, replaced the chainstay bridge and converted to u brake. I trimmed/filled the disc mount on the dropout and removed the hose guide on the seatstay so it’s strictly u brake only as...

Trying to rationalise my collection and make room for new projects. Would like £100 posted for each of these. Discount if you can collect from Glasgow. First up is an SBC x SnapOn klunker frame and fork. Think these were some sort of promo offering from Snap On. In the UK they come with rim...

I believe BLB are the importer/distro so if they only have black and silver then it’s unlikely anyone else will have much different.

Not sure I'd have posted that one in an 'appreciation' thread given the repair.

The only times I’ve ended up with the wrong size spokes is when I’ve trusted databases. I’d strongly recommend measuring your hubs and rims yourself. It means you have to wait until you have them in hand to order spokes but it’s worth doing. IMO.

Pretty much how it’s gone with me and Alfines and it’s why I’ve never made the leap to spending Rohloff money.

Dounrey and maybe Hunterston I think.

Woops, double post.

I’ve brazed several steerer extensions but never a threaded fork as it’s always seemed to me that the plug/slug/bung/whatever you want to call it would get in the way of a quill stem being inserted. Given a long enough steerer it’d certainly be possible to make it work but I’ve yet to come...

Rim - erd. Hub - oln, spoke circle diameter, locknut to flange or flange to centre (prowheelbuilder handily gives you one if you enter the other).

I like to do two calculations as any difference will show up an incorrectly entered measurement (Center to flange entered as flange to locknut etc) and the two I use are ProWheelBuilder and Leonardd. Goes without saying but, do your own measurements, do not trust the databases built into...

Shand spring to mind but they tend to use Rohloff, probably because they beat Alfine for reliability. They'll also be looking for the best park of £5k for a Rohloff Bahookie. I don't think Shimano really recommend Alfine hubs for off road riding so won't be too many builders willing to put...

None of them. A hanger and straddle cable work far better in all ways except that if the main cable breaks the stable can catch on the tyre but how many brake cables have you broken in your life?

I cut the shell on my Twenty to 68mm and used both road hollowtech and Sugino 75 cranks on it. I’d have had the Suginos on a 107mm bb to get the chain line right.

Heat sink for the coaster brake. A rather rudimentary one but probably works. Here's the one I have,

We tried but we were a small team and all doing full time jobs as well so…

The Surly but with dropouts for gears and maybe made of lighter tubing is what I need to find.