Recent content by usedtodoit

Re: I assume you are looking for dimensions for the ID and OD of the bearings. The bearing ID will match the OD of the fork steerer tube since it is a press fit. If you are intending to use stock forks and bar/stem I suggest you purchase the bearings from one of the couple of painter/restorers...

Re: STYFF carbon canti brace Next in line for this please.

Re: early 90s Colonel, early 2000 disc mod.

Re: https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/bik/ ... 79602.html

Re: I'll keep you in mind. A little time to see if a 150 shows up.

Want to trade my MC1 Dolomite bar stem 120 mm for your 150 mm. Condition must be good.

Re: If you are looking at the one on Ebay, it might be aluminum. There is another listed currently but not labeled as Duke and is titanium. Call Dean and ask. I've had good responses from them.

Re: The bearings and steerer are loctited in. Klein made a tool set that pressed these out. Not sure how safe the mallet approach is, potential to damage the top of the steerer. http://forums.mtbr.com/attachments/vint ... manual.pdf

The shop should be able to pack it at least if not call UPS or Fed Ex to trnasport it. They may be inclined since you just bought it from them. Nice bike. I have never seen a RS fork painted in nebula breen

Are you located in the States? I would like the layback but will have to check this evening if I have an inline to swap. If not, would you care for a sale of yours so you can purchase the inline of your choice? Thanks, Richard

check out this site. Guy knows the Mantra and can help with your concerns. Sounds like you need bushings. http://www.themacaddress.com/?p=99708183&cpage=3

I have a set of early 90s Campy platform pedals that need the inboard ball bearings replaced. The bearings are not in the best condition but appear to be about 0.153" +-. The outer ball bearings measure 0.125" and are in good condition. Are these pedal supposed to utilize metric bearings...

Thanks for the translation help. Can't get the bolt to turn. Put enough twist on it to worry about rounding in the allen socket. Looking from below the threaded end of the bolt extends through the wedge a few mm. It looks to have some corrosion present, probably what is keeping it from...

I assume you are suggesting to "twist it". My concern is spinning the allen and rounding the bolt.

Any suggestions for working loose a stuck MC1 quill stem bolt? Normally I would invert the bike and pour a penetrant in from the underside of the steerer. Problem is this is likely to flow through the bearings and top seal removing lube and potentially effecting the integrity of the original...