Recent content by Steelframeman

A couple of extra pointers for you to check :- seat post size - stem diameter (where it slots in the fork) - BB width - BB & forks head threads Once the forks are out maybe the manufacturer name is stamped on the fork stem ? Also look down inside where the badge was & see if you can pick out...

Assuming there is a slight gap left between the two lugs clamping he seat post, is there any way you can use cut down hacksaw blade or any thin grinder in there ? once the its cut then you are able to prize them apart. Agreed with above once recessed Allen bolts loose their shape real problem...

Assuming there is a slight gap left between the two lugs clamping he seat post, is there any way you can use cut down hacksaw blade or any thin grinder in there ? once the its cut then you are able to prize them apart. Agreed with above once recessed Allen bolts loose their shape real problem...

So much depends on the bike, its age, rare, original decals, once you've rubbed it down then what ? are stripping it completely or just doing cosmetics. Rubbing compound will leave very dull paint areas, just using touch up will look terrible, so you need to think what is your own plan in mind...

I would not disagree with above that's the correct way, but its a basket of a job, releasing 7 then re-tension & re-installing 7 once its in place, I've just done one, one of the hardest jobs is trying to hold the RD in some form of grip / vice (without marking it) & then putting it under...

*** typo *** Should be 24.tpi sorry

I expect to be corrected by the Raleigh expects but to my humble understanding - Worksop build bikes being better quality used 44.tpi on BB whereas all other Raleigh's of that time were using 26.tpi I'm not certain when Raleigh changed over to use the standard 24.tpi threaded BB ? Also when...

Also the RD cable running under the BB would make it 1984 not 1974

In my humble opinion when I'm looking over a bunch of bicycles the first thing I look out for is either down tube shifters, or stem mounted, then I'll look closer to see if its steel with a brazed lugged frame, at the same time any maker's name or other decals, then further examination. Really...

There are far greater expects than me on this forum, my humble comments are :- The Raleigh head badge does not state Made in England although the decal on the down tube does ? is there any serial number stamped anywhere on the frame ? as Raleigh bikes are one of the few manufacturers that have...

Keith, Yes but one has to try & tap all sources of knowledge just hoping someone will know or recognize it, there is no harm as I mentioned above I realize its nothing exotic, but even vintage low end bikes in reasonable now are becoming less easy to find especially over here. I am British &...

Appreciate your points, my only guess at age is based on the date stamped on the fork, & the Shimano date stamp on the hubs which I consider the least likely parts to be changed, also the rear drop spacing is 130.mm which tends to indicate around late 1970s although the rear drop out slots are...

My 1981 is 113.mm although the BB is the old width of 70.mm not 68.mm

I’m hoping help to be able to identify my latest rebuild, I’ve really sent a lot of time trying to identify this bike, I’m not expecting it to be anything exotic, but would love to know the manufacturer, at least I could fit proper decals. It was in a mess so I’ve stripped it & had it...

I've had this problem on a few recent rebuilds the trouble is the rust although it seems to be a small area migrates out like worms under the paint work & covers huge areas, the other problem you will have is that any respray or hand touch up in a local area will stand out as new paint. I...