They should be at the top of each fork blade and between the shifters. On your third photo down I can see the mark where the transfer has been.
You can just about make them out on my photo. I masked them before doing the respray.
I've still got the original purple Look pedals too but I...
That's in lovely condition Wriggles. Odd that all of the R653 transfers are missing though. Mine also came with a Turbo saddle but it was black.
Are those the original wheels with 7 speed rear hub ? The rims were for tubs and I swapped mine at purchase for a hand built pair (Mavic rims on...
That's right Foz. And thanks for your advice. I had to cut the locknut diagonally and very carefully using a junior hacksaw. The blade just touched the steerer threads in a few places but no harm was done. I then opened it up using a hammer and screwdriver. Thankfully, the alloy was very soft...
Strange how the bearing clip on the left is still like new after 20 years whereas the one on the right needs replacing. The other locknut is steel and a temporary measure until I can get a new shiny one. Mysterious small washer was found at the bottom of the steerer.
It was Granville Lock Thread:
http://www.granvilleoil.com/product_inf ... rod_id=150
Heating the locknut is not a problem. What is though is doing so without burning the paint where the top tube joins the head tube.
Thanks for your suggestions so far. I'm considering wrapping the tubes in wet tea towels and using a heat gun. Don't want to ruin the paint though.
I've no objection to locknut destruction as it's now pretty buggered and I've got a spare in the shed. It's alu and I reckon it'll cut easily...
The Campag locknut on my lightweight has frozen solid. I glued it on several years back using some thread lock from a car shop as it kept working loose every few rides.
Can't shift it and neither can my mate who's a car mechanic and stronger than me.
Can anyone give me any advice ? It's...