Recent content by klunkrider

Cables and b tension would first ports of call. If the new cassette is smaller then the mech might be sitting too far away so babbling b tension screw out may help.

DMR Bolt too.

Nice! Seems like a lot of leverage on that single bolt stem though, does it do an alright job of holding onto the bars?

My opinion is that this is either snobbishness/wanting to feel superior if it's coming from users or just patter if it's coming from a salesperson rather than anything factual. I reckon about 90% of 'breaking in' a Brooks is just softening up the leather. It's handy that it's while that's...

Yeah, listing from the US under the threshold doesn’t about taxes etc but if I look at one for a couple hundred quid I get options to prepay the fees at checkout or defer.

Ah ok that makes sense. I should have worked that out myself as I’ve used Buyee to buy camera stuff from Japan. EBay likes to show me bike stuff from the US so I’ll need to look at one of those listings.

^That's a lot of text, too much for me, but I'll take it's a decent description of what to measure. My TLDR (too long didn't read) summary would be that you need about 3 measurements. Rim erd or the diameter of the rim at the nipple seat. The diameter of the circle of the holes in your hub...

So, I remember seeing eBay listings in the past that had two parts to the shipping costs which I think was shipping and then any fees. That seems to have disappeared and now when eBay shows me items from outwith the UK (as it seems to love doing) there's no mention of fees, vat etc. It's...

Is this the case though? I always thought there was likely to be fees (import fee, vat and handling fee) to be paid on top of the price you see on eBay?

Eyelets supposedly the hallmark of a higher quality (and therefor hopefully stronger) rim but I reckon that's outdated thinking and technology has now moved on to make eyelets somewhat redundant. I have even seen it suggested that a simpler, non eyeletted rim can outperform an eyeletted one...

Reckon I’ve been through at least a dozen Brookses and never bought one new. Pick them up ‘pre broken in’ off eBay, someone else has done all the hard work and absorbed the roughly 75% deflation in value too. Win win!

I remember hearing bitd that WTB made wooden prototypes and refined them until they were comfortable and then replicated them in plastic and foam for production.

I seem to say this almost every time wheel building is mentioned but it’s a hill I’d die on, trusting other people’s numbers is a great way to end up with the wrong size spokes. I have seen first hand differences in sizes between two examples of what should be exactly the same product in both...

I know two people that have pressed steerers in/out, afaik both used hydraulic presses. One is my collage at work and his is still going strong. He told me he froze the steerer and warmed the crown in hot water too.

In steel yeah, alloy steerers will (probably) have much more wall thickness and smaller id.