Trek Multi Track 700 - JoeH builds Tootyred's for a friend.

[JoeH]

SEAT PIN

Ok, so this frame uses a 26.6mm dia seat pin/post
Contrary to what the internet says a Trek Multitrek CroMoly 700 from 1993 (or 1992/4) uses a 26.6mm

Not 26.8
Not 27.0
Not 27.2

I don't have pictures before, but I had a seat pin that, I thought fitted, but after I pushed it more than 1" into the seat tube, it jammed.
I was under time pressure at this stage, and resorted to my neighbour opposite who worked his magic, and turned my - uneven diameter seat pin, into a beautiful 26.6mm. Lathing it down from 26.8mm, the walls are 2.8mm thick, and it's not that long, so this will be fine.

The un-lathed end that fitted fine:

That'll do

I was so relieved to get this sorted:

It fitted 'perfectly'

Will it slide down - Yes

Time for a test ride by my Father:
You can see in this picture the bars give a very upright position - this is to mimic the existing upright position my friend gets with dutch style swept back bars. The benefit of these 'magix' butterfly style bars is that you get other hand positions to help on longer rides, which are most noticable when going up hill, or down hill fast. According to the reading I did. I also set the brakes up, so you can just reach the lever with finger tips, when hand is on the outer edge of the bars.

 

[JoeH]

Is that complete I here you say.

Well, as you probably all know, a bike can work great on a stand, but a flaw may turn up when being test riden.

It sure did - the rear brake. The frame is designed for canti's, but I was using V's.

I'll let the photo's do the talking, but the rear brake, wouldn't 'unspring' due to the 'S' shaped seat pin braze on.

This is no good:

'S' shaped:

Dremel time - with a carborundum metal cutting disc - little black ones.

This is better, but I'm not sure it's ideal...


Ultimately I got the bike finished intime. The dead line was 'twosday' being the 22.02.22, and I managed to deliver sometime between 10:02pm and 10:22pm for what its worth.

 

[CassidyAce]

Good work! Origin-8 and Acor do clamp on cable stops that work well. If you get them a size too large for the tubing, you can make a shim with some cut-up inner tube and that way you avoid damaging the paint.

 

[Joycey26]

Nice! I haven’t been on in a while but I’ve just built up a 730 frame I got from Tootyred! Pic attached

 

[foz]

Careful with that rear brake, the noodle should have a full 5mm outer right up to it, you only have the thin protective white tube. This is probably not compressionless, so on hard braking it will probably crunch up instead of pulling correctly on the inner cable...
Nice build though! Trek multitrack frames are nice

 

[garanti_construit]

Trek multitrack frames are nice

+ 1

Excellent project, thanks for the thread.

 

[JoeH]

Out of interest - two questions you might guess I'll ask.

a) What seat post dia was your frame? - as yours is a 'posher' steel compared to the 700
b) How did you get on with the rear brake? - looks like you had canti's which means your good...

Feel free to dump more pics on this thread should you wish.

Nice! I haven’t been on in a while but I’ve just built up a 730 frame I got from Tootyred! Pic attached

 

[Joycey26]

Out of interest - two questions you might guess I'll ask.

a) What seat post dia was your frame? - as yours is a 'posher' steel compared to the 700
b) How did you get on with the rear brake? - looks like you had canti's which means your good...

Feel free to dump more pics on this thread should you wish.

Hi!

The seatpost is 26.6mm which I found on some old trek manual. I bought a pretty cheap one on ebay

Brake wise, yes they’re cantilevers and the guide for the cable is in good nick so all was fine. The brake is a little off centre but does the job

I can try and take some more snaps this week if they’re of interest

 

[JoeH]

Careful with that rear brake, the noodle should have a full 5mm outer right up to it, you only have the thin protective white tube. This is probably not compressionless, so on hard braking it will probably crunch up instead of pulling correctly on the inner cable...
Nice build though! Trek multitrack frames are nice

Thanks for your comment. They way I view it, is that the rear brake cable has a stop at the front of the top tube (not the rear which is normal) and this front stop is what the brake pulls against. The noodle and tube all just direct the cable.
I disagree that the protective white tube will crunch up because I have left it short of the noodle, so it won't crunch as there is no shortening compressive force. BUT it will wear with friction against/through the cut 'S' shape braze on.
Hence why I fitted a much longer than needed protective white tube long, so when it wears/splits, it can be slide along in situ and all be good.

The white tube is taken from a brake cable that I dissected.

 

[JoeH]

I can try and take some more snaps this week if they’re of interest

Go for it - they are sister bikes
Close up I reckon yours has nice paint.