STRANGELOVE
- Thread starter velomaniac
- Start date
It wouldn't be a blast. It would be an endless painful slog. Thrunton is fun because its fast and technical. Fat tire bikes don't do fast and technical. In fact they don't do anything apart from take away the excuse to able to stay inside all warm and toasty because the snow is too deep.
Word has it that this winter is going to be much worse than the last two put together. They say records will be smashed and its going to cripple any government that is ill prepared.
That'll be us then. :roll:
So, another shit summer almost over and a bad winter up ahead. What happened to global warming eh?
That'll be us then. :roll:
So, another shit summer almost over and a bad winter up ahead. What happened to global warming eh?
FIRST SPY SHOTS!
Here is frame number two.just a few teasers for now.
Its a 26' wheel hardtail. Its a large size as its going to Gil_M.
Basic details....
Reynolds 853 main triangle, True Temper rear end. S bend stays, breezer dropouts, 2.5 tyre clearance, built to run 69.5 head and 71 degree angles with a 140mm fork running 20% sag.
Frame has been constructed with TIG but will have all joints finished with nice smooth 'Faux Fillets' and the headtube area will have a Bilaminate treatment.
Bi-lam is an old english method that came about after the war when there was a real shortage of lugs. It involves cutting shapes out of flat steel, rolling it around the tube, before brazing into place to get the lugged look. Its largely decorative but also strengthens the headtube top, bottom and at the rear. Once they are on, and the rear portions are radiused into the top and down tubes with fillets it gives the impression that the headtube floats in a unitary front triangle. The added strength also negates the need for ugly gussets that production builders need to get through the CEN tests.
Here you can see the top and bottom parts of the bi-lam or 'faux' lug taking shape. A little more tweeking and filing and they can be brazed into place. The back bone isnt in the pic, I'm still making it, but will join the two pictured parts by wrapping around the back of the headtube between the tubes and out to run down the side of the head tube.
Heres the BB area. Now its TIG'd up it can be cleaned ready for the faux fillets. I've added a few small gussets to this area as the chainstays are bridgeless and it needs beefing up a little. I don't want any breakages!
A few random shots of the welding. Some folk add faux fillets to hide crappy welds. I just want to show you that these welds are pretty neat. Almost a shame to cover them up actually.
Seat mast is unfinished. I'm going to carve it into a micer shape before adding the braze on bold binder.
Thats your lot for now. I'm hoping to get the brazing done at the weekend and then get it all filed and sanded prior to paint. I will pop some more pics up when the fillets are done.
Si
Here is frame number two.just a few teasers for now.
Its a 26' wheel hardtail. Its a large size as its going to Gil_M.
Basic details....
Reynolds 853 main triangle, True Temper rear end. S bend stays, breezer dropouts, 2.5 tyre clearance, built to run 69.5 head and 71 degree angles with a 140mm fork running 20% sag.
Frame has been constructed with TIG but will have all joints finished with nice smooth 'Faux Fillets' and the headtube area will have a Bilaminate treatment.
Bi-lam is an old english method that came about after the war when there was a real shortage of lugs. It involves cutting shapes out of flat steel, rolling it around the tube, before brazing into place to get the lugged look. Its largely decorative but also strengthens the headtube top, bottom and at the rear. Once they are on, and the rear portions are radiused into the top and down tubes with fillets it gives the impression that the headtube floats in a unitary front triangle. The added strength also negates the need for ugly gussets that production builders need to get through the CEN tests.
Here you can see the top and bottom parts of the bi-lam or 'faux' lug taking shape. A little more tweeking and filing and they can be brazed into place. The back bone isnt in the pic, I'm still making it, but will join the two pictured parts by wrapping around the back of the headtube between the tubes and out to run down the side of the head tube.
Heres the BB area. Now its TIG'd up it can be cleaned ready for the faux fillets. I've added a few small gussets to this area as the chainstays are bridgeless and it needs beefing up a little. I don't want any breakages!
A few random shots of the welding. Some folk add faux fillets to hide crappy welds. I just want to show you that these welds are pretty neat. Almost a shame to cover them up actually.
Seat mast is unfinished. I'm going to carve it into a micer shape before adding the braze on bold binder.
Thats your lot for now. I'm hoping to get the brazing done at the weekend and then get it all filed and sanded prior to paint. I will pop some more pics up when the fillets are done.
Si
Just cut the stays to length, fill with sand and whack em in a pipe bender and roll them through. These stays come pre tapered- round at the drop out end and ovalized at the BB end. Probably overkill but I pressed dimples into them around the tyre to give extra clearance using an arbour press and a few bits of hardwood which I knocked into shape with an anglegrinder and a dremel. Then they go in a fixture to get the mitres cut to fit the BB.
I'm still shopping for tooling at the moment so there have been improvisations, compromises, wastage, hard labour and hours wasted, but as the gear arrives it will get easier I suppose.
I'm still shopping for tooling at the moment so there have been improvisations, compromises, wastage, hard labour and hours wasted, but as the gear arrives it will get easier I suppose.
