GT RTS-3

[GT-TJR]

Picked up a bargain GT RTS-3 on eBay last weekend. I believe it’s a 96 model. It was cheap due to a crack on the BB shell. Which I knew about. Overall the bike is lovely condition. No rust on anything and mostly original.

Had it welded this week which has worked ok. Rebuilding the bike now and here’s the question… anyone know what the torque specs are for the pivot bolts? Cleaned all the old crud out, regreased and tightened up the bolts. There seems to be a fair bit of friction in the pivot joints. Is this normal? Would prefer to torque them to the correct settings!

 

[ishaw]

I should have a manual which might state torque. As they are bushings rather than bearings on the RTS 3, there will be more drag. On my team RTS it has bearings for the main pivot. The rocker has bearings too, which could be stiff and need replacing. On another RTS frame I have, I've had a bearing co version done on the chain stay pivots. Also converted the rear end to full disc, so not one for the purists.

I love an RTS frame, won't part with my team ever, it's such a good design, though of it's time. The main drawback is the proprietary shock, well keeping it going or finding a modern replacement. Risse is the only one I know of.

 

[d8mok]

Had that exact bike in 1995/6.

My mates nicknamed it Really Toss Suspension (RTS)

 

[GT-TJR]

A scan of the manual would be really appreciated. There’s not much info online about these bikes. Did have a good rummage before asking.

The main pivot is a bushing. The two lower rocker joints are bearings.

I think my shock may have lost its oil. Seems a bit bouncy? Is that normal?

Did some rebuilding with a few upgraded parts I had spare. Mostly STX RC. Light polish with Brasso took all the old grime off. Progress so far…

 

[GT-TJR]

I should have a manual which might state torque. As they are bushings rather than bearings on the RTS 3, there will be more drag. On my team RTS it has bearings for the main pivot. The rocker has bearings too, which could be stiff and need replacing. On another RTS frame I have, I've had a bearing co version done on the chain stay pivots. Also converted the rear end to full disc, so not one for the purists.

I love an RTS frame, won't part with my team ever, it's such a good design, though of it's time. The main drawback is the proprietary shock, well keeping it going or finding a modern replacement. Risse is the only one I know of.

Did you find the RTS manual?

 

[zonoskar]

A bouncy shock I recognise. I sent my shock to Noleen to get it serviced. It came back not bouncy at all, total transformation.

 

[GT-TJR]

A bouncy shock I recognise. I sent my shock to Noleen to get it serviced. It came back not bouncy at all, total transformation.

Hmmm. I’d feared that answer! but expected it.

Noleen responded to my enquiry recently. They offer a seal kit. But no service manual.

 

[stu]

Looks great Miss my RTS-3 which developed a crack round the BB shell area as well, ended up parting mine out and then scrapping the front triangle, sad times!

Cheers
Stu

 

[GT-TJR]

Progress update on the RTS build. Bought a cheap 97 Bomber Z1 with issues to replace the blue Z4. So also a Z3 QR20 Bomber as a donor fork, for the bushings and other unobtainable spares. Including a crown with alloy steerer. Used the nicer but slightly newer brace, with the additional CNC-ing work. Also added the additional top out springs from the z3, which lowered the fork to around 85-90 mm travel. I was concerned 100mm fork would push the geometry too far. I've had experience with this from my other GT (91 Karakoram Elite). I originally ran this at 100mm but the front would get too light on climbs. Lowered that to 80mm and it worked wonderfully.




The weld has had over 6 weeks to age harden now and is looking solid, the dull finish around the weld has naturally evened out, looking shiny now. Magic.



The final piece was the shock, which I worked out was toast. I had the options of sending it off to Noleen in the USA (too expensive), ordering a seal kit from Noleen and attempting to rebuild myself (risky and no way to inject the nitrogen myself to 200 psi). So went for the safe option and sent it off to an expert in the UK. Found RSF (Plymouth), they have worked on these shocks before. Had a chat with Dave, he was confident he could rebuild it, using seals he has custom made. Long story short it took longer than expect due to a number of issues. Dave was honest and upfront and I would recommend him for this work. Can really feeling the damping working when you compress it with the spring removed. Its ridable again! Dave found the shaft seal had melted and left the oil in the 90's...




Shock was reunited with the frame and bike was ready for a ride! Did a 16 mile XC loop from one end of the Malvern Hills and back stopping at the Obelisk at Eastnor, which will be familiar to anyone who attends the Mavens Classic. Bike performed well, with a few issues, was a pretty tough ride for a shakedown! The rear suspension is fairly subtle but effective, definitely takes the edge of rocky trails, reducing fatigue. Welded BB shell is still good.





The main annoyance was play in the bushings. I isolated this down to the shock rod end. Causing a constant knocking. I like my bikes to be right and although I doubt its a huge issue it is niggling me! Anyone have any experience with what can cause this? I can see the top hat spacers fit well but not tight into the eyelet on the shock. Can these be sourced anywhere? I also noted the original bolts are threaded all the way, I expected these only to be partially threaded. Would a shoulder bolt be better? Or am I just expecting too much from an old system?