A couple of basic questions about gears and levers

DrewSavage":2ew78bri said:
Rats. What would you recommend, hamster? As well as the Campag Records, I have a pair of Shimano 600 hubs acquired as part of a job lot that I was going to sell on, but they're only 32-hole.

Well, you are lucky that Campag 7 & 8 and Shimano 7 all have the same cassette spacing. I would use a 7 speed Shimano cassette on a 7 speed Shimano hub. It works perfectly with Campag 8 mech and shifters, in fact I used to run an MTB like it.

I would looks for an M730/735 hub or M650 or M550. Any 7 speed road hub would do too, but parhaps is less easy to find in 36H. The internals are all identical, and you can mix and match the bits. If you are really stuck I have an M200 36 hole hub body with pristine bearing surface. You can transplant the 105 axle and cones into it.
 
chris667":3ogpjj7f said:
Traditionally, you have two types of caliper brake. Long drop, which gives you room for 28mm tyres and mudguards, and short drop which gives room for 25mm tyres with no mudguards, wh
A 700c conversion means a very long drop brake. Tektro make one which is excellent; I have a pair on my Raleigh Lenton. It gives room for a 32mm thee and mudguard. If your centrepulls fit, though, I would stick with those. Performance can be excellent but tuning them is a lost art. Kool stop pads and an alloy hanger will take the performance out of all recognition.

That sounds interesting. How does the alloy hanger help?
 
A thick piece of alloy is less flexible than a thin piece of steel.

Anything that flexes when you squeeze the levers is a waste of energy.

Make sure your centrepulls are really clean, use new cables, aero levers, a decent hanger and kool stop pads and all will be well.
 
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