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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 1:43 pm 
Windmilling for a Scotch Egg
Windmilling for a Scotch Egg
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Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:27 am
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Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire
Is it possible? I used to have some and I think it is, and I am sure I saw a pic of a Zaskar on here with some on but can't find it now.
Simple to do? Any pitfalls?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 1:45 pm 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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Location: scotland
i think you have to turn the mounts upside down and drill a tiny bit out of them ?


could be wrong 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 1:45 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Location: Yateley, Hants.
Longer hose needed between the two caliper halves IIRC and that's it.

Carl


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 1:54 pm 
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Location: Platsa, Messinias, Greece
You'll have to file out the mounts to fit over the larger U brake posts and fit the mounts upside down, of course.
Where you might run into trouble is getting the whole assembly low enough for the pad to clear the tyre (I had to file quite a lot out of the mounts to allow this on my '88 Explosif) - also, if the U brake post centres are around 88mm you might have a problem getting the brake pads close enough to the rim, especially if the rims happen to be narrow.

I can post a few photographs if you think this would make it all clearer?

No longer hose needed.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 2:19 pm 
Windmilling for a Scotch Egg
Windmilling for a Scotch Egg
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Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire
Photos would be ace.
I will be saving up for some Racelines in yellow but there's no point if they won't fit my Tequesta. Won't have massive tyres on but there isn't much clearance as it is.
What's the best distance between the posts then, if 88mm is the max?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 3:51 pm 
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Location: Platsa, Messinias, Greece
Rob Atkin wrote:
What's the best distance between the posts then, if 88mm is the max?


Well, probably no more than 84mm would be ideal and no more than 315mm from the wheel spindle centre - any more than that and you will run into trouble as the slots in the mount can't be extended any further than I have done and the calipers can't be dropped low enough to clear the tyre.

You can see that I have them angled in slightly to bring the pads nearer to the rim (Mavic M261) but this also brings them up nearer the tyre, as they move in an arc. It's a sort of catch 22 situation. If the studs were closer together and nearer the spindle centre (say 310mm) then it would all be a lot easier.

They have a lot nicer modulation than the U brake though.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 4:07 pm 
Windmilling for a Scotch Egg
Windmilling for a Scotch Egg
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Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:27 am
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Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire
That's fantastic. Obviously you dont need a longer connecting hose as the brake itself is in the same position as it would be on canti studs, it's the mount that is the opposite way round.

Do you have to file out a larger slot entirely or just the bit where you plan the brake mount to go in?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 4:26 pm 
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Location: Platsa, Messinias, Greece
Rob Atkin wrote:
Obviously you dont need a longer connecting hose as the brake itself is in the same position as it would be on canti studs, it's the mount that is the opposite way round.


Exactly !
Rob Atkin wrote:
Do you have to file out a larger slot entirely or just the bit where you plan the brake mount to go in?


Just the area which will end up on the brake post, there's no need to widen the whole slot. Mine are actually opened out only on the outside face, rather than both sides of the slot equally, so that the whole mount is moved inboard as much as possible, plus I had to extend the length of the slot too in order to get as much tyre clearance as I could squeeze out of them.
You'll notice that the hose unions on the calipers are hard up against the mounts - there's not any more adjustment to be had anywhere
You might get lucky and not have to do any more than ease them a bit to allow for the larger diameter U brake post.
I'm not using the QR either, just an Allen bolt on both sides - in a non-race situation the extra 20 seconds doesn't matter and as I'm running tubeless I don't get thorn punctures anyway 8)

Any more info or pics. that you want, just give me a shout.

Andy.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 9:58 am 
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Rob Atkin wrote:
Photos would be ace.
I will be saving up for some Racelines in yellow but there's no point if they won't fit my Tequesta.


These any use to you?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 10:51 am 
Windmilling for a Scotch Egg
Windmilling for a Scotch Egg
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Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:27 am
Posts: 4867
Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire
Andy R wrote:
Rob Atkin wrote:
Photos would be ace.
I will be saving up for some Racelines in yellow but there's no point if they won't fit my Tequesta.


These any use to you?


Ooooh! They look good, thanks finding them! Have replied to that post. :-)
Used to be a regular on STW but don't look on there any more so I wouldn't have seen then myself. :-)


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