92 Rocky Mountain Equipè - seatpost issue
- Thread starter magas
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yep should be 27.0mm for the 92 Equipe according to the catalogue:
http://retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/main.ph ... emId=45424
http://retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/main.ph ... emId=45424
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I may be smaller, though it shouldn't have got past Rocky Mountain quality control, tutu to them 
It could be corroded ?
Clamp at the top bent slightly ?
Any pictures ?
or poor Rocky Quality control and it really does need a smaller size.
iirc in 1993 they officially had some 26.8 diameters and you would know if it was 1993 or after from teh none wishbone stays.
Here's the '91/'92 list
1991
Titanium 29.2 (3Al/2.5V Ti)
Altitude 27.0 (Ritchey Logic Prestige Custom Blend)
Summit 27.0 (Tange Prestige Concept)
Blizzard 27.0 (Tange Prestige Concept)
Équipe 27.0 (Tange Prestige, Quad Butted, Double Butted, Concept Blend)
Hammer 27.0 (Ritchey Logic Cro-Mo)
Fusion 27.0 (Ishiwata Cro-Mo Triple Butted)
Nimbus 27.0 (Easton #7005)
Expérience 30.4 (Aluminum #7000)
Cirrus 30.4 (Aluminum #7000)
Stratos 27.0 (Aluminum #7000)
Thunderbolt, custom 27.0 (Tange Prestige std,o/s or concept)
Tantalus, custom ??.? (Tange Ritchey Logic Super Butted)
1992
Titanium 27.0 (3Al/2.5V Ti) 27.0
Altitude 27.0 (Tange Ultimate Prestige Superlight Blend)
Vertex 27.0 (Tange Prestige Concept)
Équipe 27.0 (Tange Prestige Ultimate Super Light, Concept)
Hammer 27.0 (Ritchey Logic Cro-Mo)
Blizzard 27.0 (Tange Prestige, Concept)
Fusion 27.0 (Ishiwata Cro-Mo Triple Butted)
Metro 27.0 (Columbus Cromor Cro-Moly)
Cirrus 30.4 (Aluminum #7000)
Expérience 30.4 (Aluminum #7000)
Stratos 27.0 (Aluminum #7000)
Tantalus/Thunderbolt ??.? (various choice of steels)
The thread I posted to with that
and a direct link to a serial your should be close to
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... 230#304230
It could be corroded ?
Clamp at the top bent slightly ?
Any pictures ?
or poor Rocky Quality control and it really does need a smaller size.
iirc in 1993 they officially had some 26.8 diameters and you would know if it was 1993 or after from teh none wishbone stays.
Here's the '91/'92 list
1991
Titanium 29.2 (3Al/2.5V Ti)
Altitude 27.0 (Ritchey Logic Prestige Custom Blend)
Summit 27.0 (Tange Prestige Concept)
Blizzard 27.0 (Tange Prestige Concept)
Équipe 27.0 (Tange Prestige, Quad Butted, Double Butted, Concept Blend)
Hammer 27.0 (Ritchey Logic Cro-Mo)
Fusion 27.0 (Ishiwata Cro-Mo Triple Butted)
Nimbus 27.0 (Easton #7005)
Expérience 30.4 (Aluminum #7000)
Cirrus 30.4 (Aluminum #7000)
Stratos 27.0 (Aluminum #7000)
Thunderbolt, custom 27.0 (Tange Prestige std,o/s or concept)
Tantalus, custom ??.? (Tange Ritchey Logic Super Butted)
1992
Titanium 27.0 (3Al/2.5V Ti) 27.0
Altitude 27.0 (Tange Ultimate Prestige Superlight Blend)
Vertex 27.0 (Tange Prestige Concept)
Équipe 27.0 (Tange Prestige Ultimate Super Light, Concept)
Hammer 27.0 (Ritchey Logic Cro-Mo)
Blizzard 27.0 (Tange Prestige, Concept)
Fusion 27.0 (Ishiwata Cro-Mo Triple Butted)
Metro 27.0 (Columbus Cromor Cro-Moly)
Cirrus 30.4 (Aluminum #7000)
Expérience 30.4 (Aluminum #7000)
Stratos 27.0 (Aluminum #7000)
Tantalus/Thunderbolt ??.? (various choice of steels)
The thread I posted to with that
and a direct link to a serial your should be close to
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... 230#304230
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RockiMtn":wiu809xe said:
I think for the 90/91/92 frames they evolved throughout the year they are all merge together
That or the catalouge could be wrong.
thanks for your answers so far
pics. as requested
previous owner told me, that he used a ZOOM 27,0 seatpost which fits the frame. I tried 3 diff. 27,0 posts (Tioga, Ritchey & a Kona). They fit, but very very tight - no need of a seatpost binder :shock:
Theres no corosion inside the seattube, but to make sure, I gave it a rub with 800 / 1000 sandpaper - but no difference. Also no sign of damage to the seattube.
At the end I will buy a 26,8 to see if it makes a difference, or should I hone the inside of the seattube to have more clearence for the 27,0 posts.
Does it harm the tube ?
Btw. what seatpost binder should I use ?
pics. as requested
previous owner told me, that he used a ZOOM 27,0 seatpost which fits the frame. I tried 3 diff. 27,0 posts (Tioga, Ritchey & a Kona). They fit, but very very tight - no need of a seatpost binder :shock:
Theres no corosion inside the seattube, but to make sure, I gave it a rub with 800 / 1000 sandpaper - but no difference. Also no sign of damage to the seattube.
At the end I will buy a 26,8 to see if it makes a difference, or should I hone the inside of the seattube to have more clearence for the 27,0 posts.
Does it harm the tube ?
Btw. what seatpost binder should I use ?
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If the 27.0 goes in and you are not hammering it in to position I would use that. If you sit and ride on it does it go down ?
Binder, well anything that fits.
You can shorten the skewer if you want and fit a nut on the end. Even and Alu nut to save weight if you really wanted. It looks quite neat tucked up in the housing. If using bolt and nut then both will hide away in the seat binder on the frame.
or just your good old quick release
One thing I did on mine is to screw a Ti bolt (no need for a nut then) in to the Quick release handle giving a very sturdy setup. Of course you may need to chop it to size.
(that all probably makes no sence)
Binder, well anything that fits.
You can shorten the skewer if you want and fit a nut on the end. Even and Alu nut to save weight if you really wanted. It looks quite neat tucked up in the housing. If using bolt and nut then both will hide away in the seat binder on the frame.
or just your good old quick release
One thing I did on mine is to screw a Ti bolt (no need for a nut then) in to the Quick release handle giving a very sturdy setup. Of course you may need to chop it to size.
(that all probably makes no sence
)
bagpipes
Old School Hero
I have that same frame (the black one in the above mentioned thread that was previously the same green) Def a 27.0 on mine, slips in with no issue and clamps snug without effort.
In the end if a 27.0 requires force then dont do it. Stick a 26.8 in and prior to clamping, see how much play there is. If if seems like a lot then you may want to consider having the tube reamed back to 27.0 but I'd take it to a shop to get an expert opinion first. (probably costs nothing to ask)
In the end if a 27.0 requires force then dont do it. Stick a 26.8 in and prior to clamping, see how much play there is. If if seems like a lot then you may want to consider having the tube reamed back to 27.0 but I'd take it to a shop to get an expert opinion first. (probably costs nothing to ask)
