Building a vintage fixed gear

Running a suicide cog normally means you have to re-dish the wheel, it works (I confess to using a bit of Loctite) but it's a bit of a faff.
I can understand not wanting to invest in a proper fixed hub if you're only toying with it, but on the other hand it's easy to sell fixed parts at the moment. Hipsters pay almost new prices for s/h in many cases.
Having a proper hub makes it easier to change cogs etc, you'll experiment with ratios for a bit (don't start to high. try 65 to 69")
If you do start with a suicide cog, probably best to keep both brakes.
 
This is the best way for fixed using an old non-cassette hub. Keeps the chainline reasonable without redishing the wheel too. Screws onto hub and has threads for sprocket and lockring.

As this is my first post the link is in the next post.

Neil
 
I haven't seen one of these before, OK it has a locking thread, but is not locked to the hub so still has the same likelihood of unscrewing, IMHO.
I guess the vendor doesn't skid much! also, for the £30 it sold for you could probably find a servicable but old f/g wheel.
 
IMO/E a fixed sprocket on an ordinary screw on hub is no problem. After all plenty of folk run a "proper" fixed without the lock ring (and there are arguments as to why this is actually preferable!). Just bang it up TIGHT (good quality chain wrench and a long bar). Unless you are actually planning on trick riding - skid hops whatever - or are VERY strong I do not believe that you will unwind it.

As for spacing, simply re-space the axle to give desired chain line and then re-dish the rim (because you will be running a rear brake won't you?!).

The fixed fad started with just such conversions 10-12 years ago. I did a fair few. Used to be cheap and easy, but suitable donor bikes are now rarer - and more expensive.

The "original" C+ Fixed FAQs is still available somewhere on the net - linked via YACF if want to look it up!
 

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