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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2020 1:22 am 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2020 12:14 pm
Posts: 99
Location: Braidwood New South Wales
Google confirms they don't pull enough cable -- amateur error!

https://www.mtbr.com/threads/dia-compe- ... es.207339/


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2021 10:39 am 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2020 12:14 pm
Posts: 99
Location: Braidwood New South Wales
More hitches along the way: this is the rear wheel that came with the frame -- nice Surly flip-flop hub and no-name rim. It needs a new freewheel or sprocket -- you can see how hooked the teeth are. I bought the Park tool for removing the freewheel, but it's well and truly stuck. You can see where someone's been whacking the lock-ring with a punch so perhaps that's why the previous owner threw it in with the frame . . .

Anyone have any tips as to how to get this done without wrecking the wheel? I'd like to get it done at home rather than cave in and go to a bike shop.


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Last edited by moonlite on Fri Jan 15, 2021 11:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2021 10:41 am 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2020 12:14 pm
Posts: 99
Location: Braidwood New South Wales
Some more views of the worn and stuck freewheel.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2021 12:54 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 11:09 am
Posts: 9793
Location: Devon
Dremel and cut it off?


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2021 1:03 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Tue May 11, 2010 6:39 pm
Posts: 1920
Location: South Devon
Freewheel tool in vice, grip tyre, turn wheel. Try with 2 people.


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2021 11:05 am 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2020 12:14 pm
Posts: 99
Location: Braidwood New South Wales
Captain Stupido wrote:
Freewheel tool in vice, grip tyre, turn wheel. Try with 2 people.


Yeah that was the first thing we tried but it was too stuck -- and the slots were sufficiently knackered from being hit with a punch or screwdriver that we couldn't get the freewheel tool to grip enough.

So it was out with the Dremel. It eventually worked -- there's a small nick in the hub flange despite my best efforts, but otherwise all's good.


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20210117-IMG_4567.jpg
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2021 11:10 am 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2020 12:14 pm
Posts: 99
Location: Braidwood New South Wales
Here's the shiny new freewheel. It's a bit of a cheapie, in keeping with the rest of the build, but that's OK as it may need to be replaced when we get to the point of messing around with ratios.


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20210117-IMG_4564.jpg
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2021 11:22 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Mon Jul 20, 2009 6:27 pm
Posts: 1004
moonlite wrote:
Slight hitch today: I found a nice XT crankset and bottom bracket of the right 68mm width on eBay. It was a little rough but it seemed to make sourcing the correct bits a lot simpler, but today I really struggled to get the right-hand (drive side) bearing to screw in. I gave the threads a good cleaning out with WD40 and a stiff wire brush on a hand drill and applied lots of grease but it just didn't seem to want to go more than a few turns.

Taking the frame to the next town to get the threads chased may be the best option but it would be a huge hassle and have to wait until the new year. I'd be grateful for any advice.


Can't offer any advice - only solidarity. The bottom bracket threads rusting out on the RHS was what did for my On-One frame. The first time the bottom bracket came out it seemed to have weaker threads afterwards. Bottom brackets would go in easily enough but move up and down in the shell. The bike shop solved it by putting a resin cupped bottom bracket. That worked for a time until it started moving in the shell too.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2021 2:08 am 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2020 12:14 pm
Posts: 99
Location: Braidwood New South Wales
greencat wrote:
moonlite wrote:
Slight hitch today: I found a nice XT crankset and bottom bracket of the right 68mm width on eBay. It was a little rough but it seemed to make sourcing the correct bits a lot simpler, but today I really struggled to get the right-hand (drive side) bearing to screw in. I gave the threads a good cleaning out with WD40 and a stiff wire brush on a hand drill and applied lots of grease but it just didn't seem to want to go more than a few turns.

Taking the frame to the next town to get the threads chased may be the best option but it would be a huge hassle and have to wait until the new year. I'd be grateful for any advice.


Can't offer any advice - only solidarity. The bottom bracket threads rusting out on the RHS was what did for my On-One frame. The first time the bottom bracket came out it seemed to have weaker threads afterwards. Bottom brackets would go in easily enough but move up and down in the shell. The bike shop solved it by putting a resin cupped bottom bracket. That worked for a time until it started moving in the shell too.


Thanks! Solidarity is much appreciated. I've managed to create a workable solution (I think - time will tell) by using the bearings from two different XT BBs. Both came from the same guy who sent the crankset and both had been removed without the proper tool, but by mixing and matching I have them both installed. All looks, feels and sounds good, but we'll find out soon enough.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2021 4:54 am 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2020 12:14 pm
Posts: 99
Location: Braidwood New South Wales
Meanwhile, scored a brand-new Ritchey headset on eBay which arrived today and which I can install using a home-made headset press. That'll enable the front end to be built up: I have wheel, skewer, fork, stem, v-brakes and levers. The bars may be a bit of an issue as 25.4mm are starting to get harder to find.

Ritchey skewer from the parts hoard below.


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20201107-ritchey skewer 2.jpg
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