Ringlé straight pull hubs. Help on year and setup
- Thread starter Yetidh9
- Start date
I goy my ti-stix hubs in the hand today. They are as amazing as I hoped for. They have not been build up, so they are as good as new.
Interesting that the factory wheelset had spokes in both ends... I would consider the idear behind the hubs to be able to produce a wheel with as low as possible rotating mass and as such putting the spokes at the hubside... But looking at the pictures of the build wheels it do look like it would be some kind of a job to work on the nippels at hubside... Any comments on this "speculation" from those of you that actually had the factory wheelset in your hands?
Interesting that the factory wheelset had spokes in both ends... I would consider the idear behind the hubs to be able to produce a wheel with as low as possible rotating mass and as such putting the spokes at the hubside... But looking at the pictures of the build wheels it do look like it would be some kind of a job to work on the nippels at hubside... Any comments on this "speculation" from those of you that actually had the factory wheelset in your hands?
No, the nipple at the hub end is simply for retaining the spoke, instead of an elbow.
Wheelsmith produced the double threaded spokes in Ti, but couldn't / wouldnt do a "pulstar" type straight pull spoke. Part of the reason for this is when the nipple siezes on a pulstar spoke, it turns the spoke and you can't true the wheel. At least in this instance you can hold the spoke at the other end too if you need to (and with blades you can improvise holding then anyway).
The architecture allows easy lacing of blades too, without having to slot the flanges, although the Ti-stix SS used a regular 28h polished superduper8 on the rear with factory slotted flanges. I have some of these.
"Areo" with the HED rims was quite a driver. At the time DH was more the high speed (mammoth type courses) rather than more modern technical courses. Just look at the size of the big rings on vintage DH bikes. Also the ability to get more tension without risking flange craking.
Great product.
Wheelsmith produced the double threaded spokes in Ti, but couldn't / wouldnt do a "pulstar" type straight pull spoke. Part of the reason for this is when the nipple siezes on a pulstar spoke, it turns the spoke and you can't true the wheel. At least in this instance you can hold the spoke at the other end too if you need to (and with blades you can improvise holding then anyway).
The architecture allows easy lacing of blades too, without having to slot the flanges, although the Ti-stix SS used a regular 28h polished superduper8 on the rear with factory slotted flanges. I have some of these.
"Areo" with the HED rims was quite a driver. At the time DH was more the high speed (mammoth type courses) rather than more modern technical courses. Just look at the size of the big rings on vintage DH bikes. Also the ability to get more tension without risking flange craking.
Great product.
elite504":1onjupms said:
This is truly good information. The development of the 4,5mm holes as a way to accommodate a bladed spoke without slotting the holes is clever. I am hover still tempted to try to run an upside down straight pull spoke so I can do without nippels on the rim-end. I have found a manufacture of carbon rims that will be able to make a drilling of the rims to accommodate this.... so lets see how this ends up. It s absolutely gonna be a hard job to work on the nippels at the hub side.
Worked a bit on the rear hub today. Wantet to convert it in to a 130mm road spaced hub to work on my Klien Quantum... I used a donor 130mm SuperDuper Eight hub (also rather late) and moved axel and hub acp over from that. They were interchangeable... so kindof conclude that the prototype hub is build around standard bearings, axels ect from the Superdupereight...
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mkozaczek":3ftcnxjl said:
Hi Mkozaczek,
I would like to ask you a big favor. Could you measure the spoke length on your wheels? I am struggling a bit with with calculations on especially the drive side. If you will do this (I hope) I would very much like you to measure drive side spoke lengths (just from the rim and to the end of the spoke in the hub side) and high of the rims. And if you all ready have the ruler out if would be nice if you could measure the non drive side and front wheel spoke length.
Know this is much to ask. But if would really help me out. Don't have to be very exact. Would just be nice to have somewhere to start from...
Cheers, Jakob
