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Thanks guys. Sorted of a fashion. See viewtopic.php?f=6&t=265047
Will road levers pull v brakes?sell me a solution!
- Thread starter The History Man
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Re: Will road levers pull v brakes?
But you are talking about your mech discs not v-brakes. You can set up discs far closer to the pad as a disc is rarely out of true by the same amount as a rim and when riding it doesn't experience the same level of flex that causes drag on the pads.
No amount of skill will ever make a canti brake lever pulling a V-brake feel anything more than nasty, but even the most ham-fisted Halfords mechanic could get a mech disc to work with a standard lever (the number of CX and touring bikes with that set up is testament to that fact).
Chopper1192":2qv7bud9 said:
But you are talking about your mech discs not v-brakes. You can set up discs far closer to the pad as a disc is rarely out of true by the same amount as a rim and when riding it doesn't experience the same level of flex that causes drag on the pads.
No amount of skill will ever make a canti brake lever pulling a V-brake feel anything more than nasty, but even the most ham-fisted Halfords mechanic could get a mech disc to work with a standard lever (the number of CX and touring bikes with that set up is testament to that fact).
secret_squirrel
Senior Retro Guru
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What would be interesting is to see the difference between BB7 mtn and BB7 road disc brakes. The former are v lever specific and the latter road/canti lever specific.
I suspect it's something like a little cam that changes the pull characteristics. I also suspect the cable discs are inherently less sensitive to cable pull differences due to the points outlined above plus the different nature of their pivot mechanisms. The original hope mechanicals were designed for canti levers but alledgedly worked fraction better with V levers.
I suspect it's something like a little cam that changes the pull characteristics. I also suspect the cable discs are inherently less sensitive to cable pull differences due to the points outlined above plus the different nature of their pivot mechanisms. The original hope mechanicals were designed for canti levers but alledgedly worked fraction better with V levers.
secret_squirrel":2h36zow5 said:
In which case I take it all back about any hamfisted halfords mechanic and replace that with some hamfisted halfords mechanics could mate them together.
That said, even if a wheel was true to within +/- 1mm the v brake pad would have to be toed to avoid squeal so the rear of the pad would be 1mm further out than the front so the minimum total movement would be 4mm (1mm either side + 1mm toe in either side). On a disc there is no need to toe in so the minimum would be 2mm. So thats twice the pull from the start.
My point is you have to be far more accurate to get a v working with the wrong brake lever than a disc, any disc.
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Supernoodles!
I'm glad someone posted this thread, I have been considering the idea of a 'Franken bike' as a commuter with a jumble of parts for a while and also wanted to fit 'dirt drops' probably the on-one midge bars as they are well priced.
How does the set up work with the thumbshifters on top and how does the brake operate, does it have enough pull?
Thanks guys.
How does the set up work with the thumbshifters on top and how does the brake operate, does it have enough pull?
Thanks guys.
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