Maillard Helicomatic options?

CanAmSteve

Dirt Disciple
I picked up a nice old Peugeot Triathlon the other day and have been cleaning it up. It was purchased new by the previous owner and it was pretty obvious why it never got much use - it's a 62cm frame (that's according to the sticker on the chainstay - I actually I measure it at 63.5 cm = 25"). I'm 6'3 and it's large for me - he is about 5'9"...

To add to his discomfort, he lived near High Wycombe - essentially one looooong hill, and the rear six speed is 13/23 with a 52/42 front. I suspect it mostly went up in two-foot gear, or was never used at home.

So sort of a NOS Peugeot in super-large frame. Nice for me. It doesn't need much - I've replaced the brake blocks and will replace the brake cables once my order arrives. Today I thought to replace the tyres as they have the usual unused tread but split sidewalls.

Well, I had never seen a Maillard Helicomatic setup before! Fortunately, the lockring was loose enough to remove without a tool A bit of cycling history there - part freewheel and part cassette. Sheldon Brown was positively scathing in his opinion of the reliability of the Helicomatic, so I think I will just put the wheels aside for now and swap in some new wheels (125mm rear spacing).

I'll retain the original wheels (in good condition - Mavic rims with Maillard hubs - nothing fancy) but should I want to use them, what are my options for rear cogs? I need to find something wider range with lower gears. The Sachs Huret Rival can handle a large cog (34 allegedly) but only a total difference of 28, so subtract the ten up front and I can supposedly use a 14/34 rear - probably safer to try a 14/32. Suggestions? Sources?

Some other neat things (to me, at least) about this bike - the seatpost is the "quill" type with expander bolt at the bottom tightened by a long bolt from the top like a stem. It's in perfect condition but a bit of a fiddle as the seat has to come off (almost) to adjust height.

And the bar tape (in great shape) is on the "wrong" way - overlapping itself at the top (stem) and then finishing under the end plugs on the drops. Actually looks quite tidy - a lot nicer than electrical tape.
 
I'd probably try a smaller inner chainring first if possible - can you get a 39T in there instead of the 42?
Chainrings tends to be easier to find than Helicomatic spares..
 
Here's a pic from my phone. I used a set of wheels and a six-speed Shimano 12/28 freehub I had on hand. Seems to be OK but I'll take it for a ride to be sure. These Rigida (?) wheels have Quando hubs, which are not that great, but the price is right. I find a liberal application of grease and some fine tuning helps a lot.
 

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Wow. the frame is gate-sized!
It looks as though that's a 130BCD crank, so at least you will be able to lower bottom gear by fitting a 38T ring in place of the 42.
 
The head tube is 230mm between the races :)

Just took it for a quick spin and it rides very well. It's a Reynolds 501 (main tubes) frame & fork, and stiffer than I expected. That's a Nervar crank - not sure of the BCD - may be smaller than 130mm - 128mm possibly and unobtanium. I wonder what BB is lurking in there... and what threading. This must have been as weird a time as now for "best new thing" bike parts.

Those are flexy sidepull Weinmans with a nice quick-release/fine adjust. One even still has its tiny plastic cap over the adjuster attachment nut. I'm hoping new cables will firm them up a bit.
 
I did see that - tempting but a bit pricey, I thought, what with Shimano freewheels a tenner. I've bookmarked it for now - many thanks
 
You probably need thicker tubes like 501 on a frame that size - one of 753 would feel like wet string.
Good luck on the chainset - fortunately there is a reasonable choice of old ones around. I found that old Weinmann callipers worked massively better with modern cables (and later levers were a big improvement too).
 
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