chain ring wear

daugs

Senior Retro Guru
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a picture is worth 1000 words, Shimano SG off 1991 marin

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so questions, totally knackered or a little left ? why is wear so irregular ? is there an easy check for the chain (I don't have a specific chain wear tool) and this is off 7 speed and all the replacements I've seen are for 8/9 speed where I assume that the ring is slightly thinner to accomodate the narrower chain and hence less metal so wears quicker ? has anyone seen a good place for replacements ?

cheers,
 
As far as I can recall

1) The wear isnt irregular, the small teeth are to allow the chain to jump off when shifting
2) 7/8/9 speed should be interchangeable
3) There are details on the web about measuring chains with a ruler, to determine wear

4) Teeth profiles look OK to me


G
 
thats not as bad as it seems!.......they really do 'all do that'.....the important wear is where the chain meets the teeth, 3 or 4mm down them.......does it run ok, or skip around under pedal pressure?....
 
as they have said, it looks fine and is meant to be like that, the teeth dont look very worn down or pointed or shark toothed to me.
 
feetabix":1hrlk52c said:
.......does it run ok, or skip around under pedal pressure?....

it came off a project that the gears didn't work that well but that was a combination of all of maintenance or lack there of, dirt etc all over mechs and chain, so difficult to tell really, having cleaned gears etc and set up with new cables still skipped a bit so decided to clean rest and not take short cuts. With a different (but same type) chainset now seems to work ok so guess the proof would be to put this one back on and see how it goes, was just quite surprised by what I found having cleaned the rings and looking at condition.
 
As above, its a normal looking ring. The 'missing' teeth aid shifting.

Typical knackered rings:

dwg36K.jpg


This sort of wear leads to 'chain suck'

OldSmallFront_web.jpg


Brilliant!

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unkleGsif":3now4hnm said:
3) There are details on the web about measuring chains with a ruler, to determine wear

4) Teeth profiles look OK to me
G

1/2" per link, I'd change a chain on a cared for drive train at + 1/32" over 12" of chain. 1/16" + and over, over 12" of chain and the chain is very dead, possibly having caused damage to chainrings and cassette.

+1 To the OP's chainring looking fine.
 
New chains are inexpensive compared to expensive chainrings,and cassettes/freewheels. Replace the chain twice a year if you ride often in old blighty weather or yearly otherwise. The expensive bits will last MUCH longer!
 
Replace the chain twice a year if you ride often in old blighty weather or yearly otherwise.

Or buy a chain checker: http://www.parker-international.co.uk/18632/Park-Tool-CC3-2-Chain-Checker-Tool.html

I replace mine as soon as it gets to .75% elongated. I also shuffle my chains from my "best" bike with the most expensive cassette and chainrings to my other biked with cheaper components. So, which ever bike has a worn chain, I always put the new chain on my best bike and the chain from it on the bike that had the worn chain. That way my best bike always has a practically new chain on it which will hopefully make the more expensive cassette and chainrings on it last longer.
 
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