bottom bracket problem

hello everybody I,m new to the forum so please accept my apologies if the questions I ask seem a bit naive.I,ve just managed to buy a Raliegh Banana in what appears to be very good condition , only marks appear to be a bit of damage on top tube decal but thats about it.It does however appear to be ready for a new bb with a bit of noise and play.Before I start to dismantle my question is , is it possible to just renew bearings or will i need to replace full bb and if so will i need to get the original part or is there a newer updated option. I,ve replaced modern mtb on mountain bikes before and was hoping to do the work myself.Any advice gratefully accepted

if it's a cup and cone style BB and is making noises, then it's likely the spindle (and maybe the cups too) will be pitted. in that case the easiest thing is just to use a modern BB of the correct length in it's place. If there's no pitting then just a good clean and regrease should do the trick.

If the cups and/or spindle aren't pitted then as Foz says you can just regrease and re-fit.

However, while you've got it apart, it wouldn't be a bad idea to fit new bearings being as they're so cheap. If it has caged bearings then you might consider using loose ones: a little more fiddly to install but you can fit more which will spread the load.

If you do need a completely new BB, you can buy either a brand new "loose bearing" one or a modern cartridge type.

You'll need a BB for a 68mm shell and with British threads. You'll also need to match the length of the spindle and the taper to your chainset: just measure your existing spindle and the taper will be ISO for a European chainset (Campagnolo etc) or JIS for Far Eastern (Shimano etc).

Pitting and brineling was not much of a problem for Bottom brackets but was a real pain for headsets !

Sounds like it's simply full of crud

I'd take it apart and put it back together with new grease

Shaun

I was surprised to learn recently, from Jobst Brandt I think, that headset pitting is caused by welding rather than impact damage as I had assumed.

With the bearings in a headset remaining static for much of the time and then returning to the same position, the race and bearings form micro-welds and when they do move, the softer metal of the race is torn forming the characteristic pits.

Thanks for the replies folks, hopefully i,ll get it in bits this coming week . If possible i,m going to keep as original as possible as overall its in very good condition i,ll keep updated.Once again thanks for some excellent advice

Update on bottom bracket issue.Managed to get cranks removed easy enough but as appears in the case of other posts on forum the bearing cups are seized solid. I,ve contacted lbs who tell me for the price of the appropriate tool I can have them remove it and for the sake of about £20 have a modern bb fitted.I think with all the hassle other people have had I,m going to go down this route.I,ve decided to replace the original chromed wheels with a new set of shiny alloys which leads me to my next question. The wheels I,ll be purchasing will have a screw on freewheel at the rear and I,m wanting a six speed as per original.Will there be any compatibility issues with say fitting shimano campag etc.The rear mech is Sachs huret and the chain set has custom stamped on it.Again thanks in advance for any advice.

In the days of 6 speed the cog spacing was the same regardless of maker...happy days!

So Shimano, Regina or any other should be fine. Modern freewheels tend to be trash for BSOs, so NOS old ones are often best if you can find one. Regina or Sachs are worth finding.