DISK BRAKE CALIPER MOUNTS: POST MOUNT & IS. DIFFERENT RO
- Thread starter srands
- Start date
suburbanreuben
Old School Grand Master
It's Marin Man, I know it is, messing with your head! 
old_coyote_pedaller
MacRetro Rider
- Feedback
- View
suburbanreuben":2bu6zy64 said:It's Marin Man, I know it is, messing with your head!
Have you seen his website?
Or his supposed feedback thread in his sig?
http://www.srands.co.uk/
Don't think it's our heads that are messed up? :shock:
- Feedback
- View
srands
Retro Guru
CROSS THREADED POST MOUNT annoyance
IF you just realised the bike you bought had cross threaded POST MOUNT frame and/or forks, wouldn't you be really annoyed? OF COURSE YOU WOULD BE ANNOYED. (Totally theoretical situation, though, sounds like sarcasm really).
After all how could a bolt NOT go in straight forward? You think it's so simple, it doesn't take a long time, in fact it's so quick, you think about it in your mind, lining up the caliper to the mount holes, inserting the allen key bolts, and slowing turning with an allen key or by hand to find the thread first of all, then once in ok, you tighten adequately with an allen key until sufficiently tight. Still you think doesn't change the fact yours (Caliper Mounts: Post Mount or/and IS Mount) is knackered!
Here let me set the scene, almost an analogy, a storyboard, a comedy of preceived errors, not negligence, or incompetence on your behalf, perhaps your deliberate intention to set up your bike, and in a moment (Cross thread), you think not to take it so seriously, is it really threaded or just felt like it, you check it again and again and again, yes it is, then you think this is something to take seriously, so you take out the bolt(s), and have a look at it, then your worst worst fears/suspicions are confirmed, you see bits of thread left on the bolt, with your fingers twirled loosely around the mangled bits of loose thread (The aluminium thread of the mount is far weaker, then the strength of the bolt, so it is highly unlikely that the bolt would be cross threaded, far more likely that is the mount or mounts), you wind the mangled threads off and throw it away.
Suddenly you think in desperation what are you going to do? Frantically you think about how something so small could be the cause of so much vindicativeness, hence you might leave your bike for a while whilst you stew on the moment on what to do (Or what not to do, and when, etc). On returning to your MTB, you come back to the same thoughts (What a good frame and/or fork it WAS, and buying another frame and/or fork is something you can't really afford, but you need a decent chassis to ride around on, after all you don't want your calipers to fall off on a really steep downhill causing a really nasty injury that heals eventually), ending with a totally malicous situation, that you think you could very easily happen, again and again, etc.
In annoyance again, you check to see if it's cross threaded, or were you confused and just left it, so you check it again and again. Once you've realised it really really really really is CROSS-THREADED, you'd pull a funny face, because you're annoyed, then you'd think for a moment about what you can do about it.
Pulling a few more funny faces, scrubbing your face in an annoyed fashion, looking around at tools, and you shrug your shoulders thinking about if the caliper mounts WEREN'T cross threaded, but the mounts are cross threaded, after a few seconds you realise there is NOTHING, you can do about that, and you feel really angry, justifiably so, too.
Then you think about possible solutions:
~ Slightly longer bolts, to grip thread that is still ok/sounds/good (etc, etc)
~ Glue (Strong glue/bond for nuts & bolts, stronger then Locktit or Threadlock, perhaps something similar, etc), or
~ BORING out to a larger bolt size,
But then you realise if none of the above works, then your FRAME and/or FORK, is USELESS, because it's not like it still has brake bosses, then you think about replacing the caliper mounts, quickly you realise this is a ridiculous thought as you can't just weld on some other POST MOUNTS or IS MOUNTS. For example, it would certainly invalidate your frame and/or fork warranty, for starters where would you get another caliper mount from? Who would you get to weld it? At what cost? And if after all that and the new welded post mount(s) were strong enough, are they in the right position? Is/are the new mounts even straight? etc etc etc Do they feel as good as they did before? Or do they flex around more then they ever did?
After all that you think what if they didn't cross thread, in the 1st place, then you realise, it's not like you can change time, you pull another funny face, out of annoyance at it all, thinking about some new/2nd hand frame and/or forks, then you thinking about what for? (i.e. The hassle, why bother, because your calipers will fall off) At a cost of? etc etc etc.
Then you think what a daft idea POST MOUNT is, IF they ever cross thread, easily done, if tightened in, without being perfectly in line, and everything, then more thoughts about why you bought a MTB/FRAME/FORK with POST MOUNTS instead of IS MOUNTS, after all, "IF" a CALIPER ADAPTOR gets cross threaded, it only about a tenner or slightly more + delivery (£10+), and that, then more thoughts about why (What were you doing?) and how the cross threading happened, about what you're going to do about, and the consequences, if you do nothing, i.e. cycle round with the continuous thought that at any given moment when applying your brakes, they may fail, and your caliper(s) will fall off. With this thought you think about jumping up and down, on your bike, and saying "ALL THIS FOR CROSS THREADED, BOLTS", then promply going to a local council rubbish tip to throw your expensive bike away whilst driving your car with excessive high volume, followed, by some impromptu shopping at local super markets for really thick steak, and then home, for multiple multiple multiple BBQ's. Whilst deliberating to eat inside or outside.
IF you just realised the bike you bought had cross threaded POST MOUNT frame and/or forks, wouldn't you be really annoyed? OF COURSE YOU WOULD BE ANNOYED. (Totally theoretical situation, though, sounds like sarcasm really).
After all how could a bolt NOT go in straight forward? You think it's so simple, it doesn't take a long time, in fact it's so quick, you think about it in your mind, lining up the caliper to the mount holes, inserting the allen key bolts, and slowing turning with an allen key or by hand to find the thread first of all, then once in ok, you tighten adequately with an allen key until sufficiently tight. Still you think doesn't change the fact yours (Caliper Mounts: Post Mount or/and IS Mount) is knackered!
Here let me set the scene, almost an analogy, a storyboard, a comedy of preceived errors, not negligence, or incompetence on your behalf, perhaps your deliberate intention to set up your bike, and in a moment (Cross thread), you think not to take it so seriously, is it really threaded or just felt like it, you check it again and again and again, yes it is, then you think this is something to take seriously, so you take out the bolt(s), and have a look at it, then your worst worst fears/suspicions are confirmed, you see bits of thread left on the bolt, with your fingers twirled loosely around the mangled bits of loose thread (The aluminium thread of the mount is far weaker, then the strength of the bolt, so it is highly unlikely that the bolt would be cross threaded, far more likely that is the mount or mounts), you wind the mangled threads off and throw it away.
Suddenly you think in desperation what are you going to do? Frantically you think about how something so small could be the cause of so much vindicativeness, hence you might leave your bike for a while whilst you stew on the moment on what to do (Or what not to do, and when, etc). On returning to your MTB, you come back to the same thoughts (What a good frame and/or fork it WAS, and buying another frame and/or fork is something you can't really afford, but you need a decent chassis to ride around on, after all you don't want your calipers to fall off on a really steep downhill causing a really nasty injury that heals eventually), ending with a totally malicous situation, that you think you could very easily happen, again and again, etc.
In annoyance again, you check to see if it's cross threaded, or were you confused and just left it, so you check it again and again. Once you've realised it really really really really is CROSS-THREADED, you'd pull a funny face, because you're annoyed, then you'd think for a moment about what you can do about it.
Pulling a few more funny faces, scrubbing your face in an annoyed fashion, looking around at tools, and you shrug your shoulders thinking about if the caliper mounts WEREN'T cross threaded, but the mounts are cross threaded, after a few seconds you realise there is NOTHING, you can do about that, and you feel really angry, justifiably so, too.
Then you think about possible solutions:
~ Slightly longer bolts, to grip thread that is still ok/sounds/good (etc, etc)
~ Glue (Strong glue/bond for nuts & bolts, stronger then Locktit or Threadlock, perhaps something similar, etc), or
~ BORING out to a larger bolt size,
But then you realise if none of the above works, then your FRAME and/or FORK, is USELESS, because it's not like it still has brake bosses, then you think about replacing the caliper mounts, quickly you realise this is a ridiculous thought as you can't just weld on some other POST MOUNTS or IS MOUNTS. For example, it would certainly invalidate your frame and/or fork warranty, for starters where would you get another caliper mount from? Who would you get to weld it? At what cost? And if after all that and the new welded post mount(s) were strong enough, are they in the right position? Is/are the new mounts even straight? etc etc etc Do they feel as good as they did before? Or do they flex around more then they ever did?
After all that you think what if they didn't cross thread, in the 1st place, then you realise, it's not like you can change time, you pull another funny face, out of annoyance at it all, thinking about some new/2nd hand frame and/or forks, then you thinking about what for? (i.e. The hassle, why bother, because your calipers will fall off) At a cost of? etc etc etc.
Then you think what a daft idea POST MOUNT is, IF they ever cross thread, easily done, if tightened in, without being perfectly in line, and everything, then more thoughts about why you bought a MTB/FRAME/FORK with POST MOUNTS instead of IS MOUNTS, after all, "IF" a CALIPER ADAPTOR gets cross threaded, it only about a tenner or slightly more + delivery (£10+), and that, then more thoughts about why (What were you doing?) and how the cross threading happened, about what you're going to do about, and the consequences, if you do nothing, i.e. cycle round with the continuous thought that at any given moment when applying your brakes, they may fail, and your caliper(s) will fall off. With this thought you think about jumping up and down, on your bike, and saying "ALL THIS FOR CROSS THREADED, BOLTS", then promply going to a local council rubbish tip to throw your expensive bike away whilst driving your car with excessive high volume, followed, by some impromptu shopping at local super markets for really thick steak, and then home, for multiple multiple multiple BBQ's. Whilst deliberating to eat inside or outside.
srands
Retro Guru
You're so right
You're so right. Me and my cycling, world importance, what is this a re-cycling issue?
A person who never leaves their hovel? More important stuff to do? Life & death, and priority issues? A religious fanatic keen on minority report? I've seen it once. Be polite, excuse me.
Mate, Be derogatory in other threads and make out that it is common place to do so, excuse me I'm a bit busy watching a documentary called "Just Do It", fascinating stuff, I know (I just made it up).
I'll go speak to my Dad, 'n' that.
Tell him, I'll need some cash back, when my MTB demoleculerises (Like everything else, just like that), I'll need a quality full suspension GHOST or GIANT, yer something like that, quality.
Anyway better, things to do, going to ride BARTON (I can be bothered), so you lot can carry on watching Sponge Bob, and that.
Whatever next after Barton, if nothing good on tv, maybe a few, slalom dancing on Beverley Westwood, just the job.
You're so right. Me and my cycling, world importance, what is this a re-cycling issue?
A person who never leaves their hovel? More important stuff to do? Life & death, and priority issues? A religious fanatic keen on minority report? I've seen it once. Be polite, excuse me.
Mate, Be derogatory in other threads and make out that it is common place to do so, excuse me I'm a bit busy watching a documentary called "Just Do It", fascinating stuff, I know (I just made it up).
I'll go speak to my Dad, 'n' that.
Tell him, I'll need some cash back, when my MTB demoleculerises (Like everything else, just like that), I'll need a quality full suspension GHOST or GIANT, yer something like that, quality.
Anyway better, things to do, going to ride BARTON (I can be bothered), so you lot can carry on watching Sponge Bob, and that.
Whatever next after Barton, if nothing good on tv, maybe a few, slalom dancing on Beverley Westwood, just the job.
Re: CROSS THREADED POST MOUNT annoyance
It can happen as the bolts usually come covered with loctite on the threads that make them hard to turn so you do not know if you are rethreading the bosses or working agaisnt the loctite.
It is good practise to run an M6 tap in the bosses first then turn the bolts anitclockwise - i.e. undo - until you can feel the bolt skip off the thread - hard to explain but try it - at that point you tru nthe bolt clcokwise as it will engage with the threads in the boss and make sure it goes in straight.
Stripping can occur if the bolt is done up too tight or is too long so it bottoms out; the bosses have also been know to split and partly break off.
... oh, and I agreee, ^^^^^ is totally bonkers.
srands":25379m2e said:
It can happen as the bolts usually come covered with loctite on the threads that make them hard to turn so you do not know if you are rethreading the bosses or working agaisnt the loctite.
It is good practise to run an M6 tap in the bosses first then turn the bolts anitclockwise - i.e. undo - until you can feel the bolt skip off the thread - hard to explain but try it - at that point you tru nthe bolt clcokwise as it will engage with the threads in the boss and make sure it goes in straight.
Stripping can occur if the bolt is done up too tight or is too long so it bottoms out; the bosses have also been know to split and partly break off.
... oh, and I agreee, ^^^^^ is totally bonkers.
Similar threads
