Yeti-mans Yeti ProFRO finished - pics at page 4

Maybe you could make a C26 copy by just leaving those insulating pipes on the down, seat and top tube! At a distance it may work and it would save you thousands of £!
 
The differences between that frame and a real FRO would throw me off from a JT replica

Tange vs. Patco
Rivet vs. welded cable guides
Pinch bolt seattube vs. BMX clamp
 
ameybrook":1zcpjarv said:
The differences between that frame and a real FRO would throw me off from a JT replica

Tange vs. Patco
Rivet vs. welded cable guides
Pinch bolt seattube vs. BMX clamp

Both FRO and Pro FRO are "real" only the pro FRO is a faster and lighter frame making it a better FRO. and the 4130 frames rust like hell. I would only considder buying a FRO if it was NOS and place it on the wall above the fireplace ;-)
 
yeti-man":1tf8mhl2 said:
Both FRO and Pro FRO are "real" only the pro FRO is a faster and lighter frame making it a better FRO.

Arguably. But its not right. Your frame is likely suspension corrected and if from the sounds of it you're going to run a right fork. I doubt it's going to matter much in handling... but its not right. At least four years too new for what you're attempting.

I can understand the Pro FRO restomod project, but my motto is anything worth doing (time, money) is worth doing right, like Kevin's JT C-26. But I can't understand getting into a project when you've got it wrong from the start.
 
ameybrook":1vh1d6il said:
yeti-man":1vh1d6il said:
Both FRO and Pro FRO are "real" only the pro FRO is a faster and lighter frame making it a better FRO.

Arguably. But its not right. Your frame is likely suspension corrected and if from the sounds of it you're going to run a right fork. I doubt it's going to matter much in handling... but its not right. At least four years too new for what you're attempting.

I can understand the Pro FRO restomod project, but my motto is anything worth doing (time, money) is worth doing right, like Kevin's JT C-26. But I can't understand getting into a project when you've got it wrong from the start.

Mike, u are off track. Where am I wrong from the start? This frame is the same frame as the disc version frame and none of them are suspension adjusted.

The susp adjusted frames came later- 1995/96 ->

It's a well known fact that the Pro FRO has better angles, better steel an better handling than the FRO.

:)
 
I might have misread this thread from the start... but you're going to make a Tomac replica from it? If so, the frame is too new.
 
ameybrook":2q3xt4lg said:
I might have misread this thread from the start... but you're going to make a Tomac replica from it? If so, the frame is too new.

;-) yes the JT FRO model even though it's a pro. Personally I dont like the old FRO due to the angles, weight and the rust issues.

It will be a nice bike and I will not disgrace the Yeti name hehe

/T-S
 
If you prep 4130 frame with rust preventer you wont see so much rust, you can pick up a can of rust preventer at your local Clasohlson, cost not so much maybe 3 euro, do it.

Some build tips for you:

1#
How about upgrading the frame with 2011 Yeti decals, drop-bars, D2 battery shifting and a Manitou 1 fork, that would look totally awesome.

2#
6" freeride fork, fenders (front and rear), drop-bar, magura drop-bar brakes, gazzaloddi on the front, 1.9" Smoke on the rear, repaint in black or red, drill and remove riveted cable holders, run full lenght cable hosing instead

:LOL:
 
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