Retrobike Forum Index

It is currently Thu Dec 05, 2019 9:30 pm

* Login   * Register * Search  * FAQ



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 115 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2019 3:26 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2010 10:50 pm
Posts: 619
That's great thanks very much. I can get the bearings locally or by mail order.
I might still cut down my red end caps though, just so the caps and hub body are close in red rather than the black ones (SJS still have some in black with a spacer clip/ring.
Depth of recess is 9mm on my hub though, but I presume the internal tube holds the bearings apart rather than the inner ring of the hub body?
Outer caps need to rest against the face of the bearing I presume also?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2019 12:30 am 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2010 10:50 pm
Posts: 619
I do have an old seatpin that would be ideal but I've modified it into a headset cup banger-outer with spreading legs (ooh er)
Of all the tubes I have in the garage (many) none are thick walled enough. Luckily Halfords have a £4.99 seat pin in stock.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2019 6:05 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2010 10:50 pm
Posts: 619
I tell you what, them two Big'Uns don't wanna swap parts. I thought it'd be so eeeeeasy, to quote Mike Skinner. I'd bought a wheel with a Big'Un with QR axle for £35, then I got the Shivers so I found another Big'Un with a 20mm axle, faded but worth it for the parts and I'd put the QR axle in that one and sell it later negating the £50 for that hub alone.

The two hubs are quite different in sizings. The outer parts where the races sit are at different offsets from the faces of the spoke flanges. I've made an internal shim, seated the bearings, made a pair of 2mm shims to stop the outer caps rubbing on the hub body, cut off the inner parts of the 20mm outer caps but all assembled, the hub is about 5mm too wide for the forks. Its pressing everything together and making the hub not spin freely.

Now I'm gonna have to find and assemble my dads UniMat 1 lathe and turn down the 20mm caps so they go inside the lip of hub body and take off the extra width.

All I did was go in me garage with the idea I was going to build my wheels up.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2019 12:51 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2010 10:50 pm
Posts: 619
Oof, the Unimat Classic, the "cool tool", it really is for modellers only. I'm sure its fine for turning a brass cannon that's 10mm long or a balsa wood staircase post but it's a weak lathe for anything bigger. I'm literally taking off slivers at 0.01mm at a time.

F** you dead Dad, with your rubbish hand me downs.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2019 6:41 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2010 10:50 pm
Posts: 619
‘‘Tis done, and front wheel built. Not tensioned and trued yet but not bad for a wr year hiatus in wheel building.

As I’m a noob to this disc brake shananigans, is it normal to fine tune the caliper’s position relative to the disc with shims/washers?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2019 8:11 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue May 23, 2017 2:29 pm
Posts: 683
Yes mate if it’s a IS mount (which yours are I believe) that is your only way to adjust.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2019 10:03 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2010 10:50 pm
Posts: 619
WR was supposed to be 24.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 12:31 am 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2010 10:50 pm
Posts: 619
Timoth27 wrote:
Yes mate if it’s a IS mount (which yours are I believe) that is your only way to adjust.

Ah OK, great, Thanks.
I was a bit unsure if it was just supposed to "work" as is, and I had done something wrong.
Tiny buckle in the bigger disc though which needs some percussive persuasion.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Aug 02, 2019 12:30 am 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2010 10:50 pm
Posts: 619
Glory be and save us, it's 2 steps forward one step back.
Image

Front wheel now built up and nicely trued and stressed/de-stressed, pinging like a defecting Russian sub. So buoyed up, a bit of assembly followed and it turns out the BB that actually came off this frame now no longer fits. How?, its a 73-110 and the modern chainset was/is very low profile thus my retro XT one doesn't even make the tapers before it hits the outer case.

Image
I thought the black spacer ring was odd, but that's how it came off so that's how I put it back on. If it wasn't for that the crank arms would hit the rear swingarm.
Annoyingly, I karma'd away a bucket of bits that had three UN BBs in it. Tsk, if only there was some sort of Karma Police.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Aug 02, 2019 12:34 am 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2010 10:50 pm
Posts: 619
Also, I did the spinning gyro anti-grav thing that ruined Eric Laithwaite's career and showed my wife who walked off decidedly nonplussed with my physics demo.
Tsk, women eh? No sense of gyroscopy
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 115 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12  Next

All times are UTC [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Paul R and 6 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  

About Us

Follow Retrobike

Other cool stuff

All content © 2005-2015 Retrobike unless otherwise stated.
Cookies Policy.
bikedeals - the best bike deals in one place
FatCOGS - Fat Chance Owner's Group

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group