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 Post subject: Re: Frame ID ? New bike!
PostPosted: Mon Jun 24, 2019 12:18 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2019 3:00 am
Posts: 12
Thanks Five for your enlightment!
Keith, you are right, there's no locking ring, that explains the free play that the Cranck has....

I don't know how to dismantle the Cranck without the cranck puller tool...I don't want to go with the rubber hammer from the back, I am afraid to change the flatness of the chainring....someone has a way to do it in a safe mode, without the special tool?.....

Thanks again!!


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 Post subject: Re: Frame ID ? New bike!
PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:55 pm 
Newbie

Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2019 2:40 pm
Posts: 3
fabianoliver wrote:
Thanks Five for your enlightment!
Keith, you are right, there's no locking ring, that explains the free play that the Cranck has....

I don't know how to dismantle the Cranck without the cranck puller tool...I don't want to go with the rubber hammer from the back, I am afraid to change the flatness of the chainring....someone has a way to do it in a safe mode, without the special tool?.....

Thanks again!!


Hello Fabian,

I am wondering if you managed to figure out what type of frame you have. Such a mix of parts and years, from 1960s-1980s. Seeing all the Italian parts makes me think it is of Italian origin, but this is just a guess. I would try to check on Legnano frames to see if they match since you have the "Legnano" Record hub (rear only?). Based on the frame features I would guess that this bike is mid '70s to early '80s (under the bottom shifter cable routing, 1 set of bottle mount bosses, fork crown design, 5 speed freewheel [if original], clamp-on front derailleur, braze-on shifter mounting, and nutted brake mounting [not recessed "hex key" style). You do need a crank puller tool to properly remove the cranks without damage. This is not an expensive tool, and you should buy one if you plan on working on your own bike; it will pay for itself compared with one visit to the bike shop. If brought to a shop it should be a 5 minute job for them, and you will be able to remove the bottom bracket cups if loose (another tool needed if tight; or have shop remove them at the same time as the cranks; you WILL need the tool [BB spanner] to reinstall the bottom bracket assy properly!). I believe that the bottom bracket spindle was put on incorrectly/backwards, you will never have that many threads exposed, even with the lockring installed (get a lock ring, it's cheap, or it will loosen again!). There is a chance that damage has occurred to the spindle races and/or cups if the bike was ridden very much in its present condition. Inspect ball bearings and all bearing surfaces for wear/pitting. A new sealed bearing bottom bracket assy from Campagnolo is not that expensive ($20-$40 USD) and is a great way to make installation easier (no bearing "play" adjustments necessary), and there is no maintenance required (adjustment/lubrication) until you need to replace the whole unit. You probably need a 112mm to 115mm length BB (I normally use 115 on many Italian frames and have no chainring contact with the frame), bring it to the shop (frame and old spindle) if you're not sure as to the needed length. If the spindle is offset, the longer side goes to the chain side. Did you measure the Bottom bracket shell width? 70mm is Italian, 68mm could be many countries or origin. The slots in the bottom bracket shell are for drainage (primarily, and to reduce weight; this is not uncommon and is more often found on a quality frame, but not always. Did the dropouts have anything stamped into them? What was the size of the existing seat post? The previous post saying that it was too small is correct; there is a shim/spacer being used to attempt to make it fit (shown in your photo). You can shim a smaller post to fit, but your post should not be more than .2mm too small, and the shim should wrap around the entire circumference of the post and cover the entire length that is inserted into the frame. I would "pry open" the seat post tabs a little so that there is a 1mm to 2mm slot opened; if your new or existing seat post drops in easily than it is the wrong size and you would need a larger diameter post (probably .2mm to .4mm). Also, the inner diameter of the seat tube might give you an idea of what type of tubing was used. Columbus "SL/SLX" tubes are 27.2mm, "SP/SPX" 27.0mm, "AELLE" 26.8; this is approximate since the tube thickness should also be checked to verify if it is "thin wall" butted lightweight tubing; and the seat tube may have been "over reamed" changing its finish diameter.
The Triomphe parts are from '85 to '89 or so. The Universal Mod. 61 brakes are from 1961 and later through to the early '70s. Campagnolo Record "high" flange hubs are from the '60s through to the early '80s (?). The Campagnolo hubs can be "dated" by looking at the locknut on them. It should say "CAMP" and have a 2 digit year ending date (eg. 75, 1975). I think that one hub might be original since you do not have 2 "Legnano" hubs; which is original, I don't know (check dates on both hubs, they might not be the same date code year).
Regardless, it should turn out to be a nice bike, if you are happy; that is all that matters.

Take care,
HPL
Ride Fast, Be Safe


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