Dawes Bike - Identifying Model

I just bought a bike frame from a car boot sale - very light - so I assumed 531 tubing. It had been badly repainted, so I had it shotblasted. This revealed the Dawes logo and the no 389863 on the bottom bracket.

I had already removed the downtube stubs, because I really don't like downtube gear changing, but I would like to know the model, to give me an idea of what components to use.

I don't know yet if I will need 27" wheels or 700's. I would like to know which brakes and chainsets were in use, before I go delving into my old parts boxes.

Any help will be appreciated.

Hello, johnggold. Welcome to Retrobike! You'll need to supply some pictures of the frame if you want to have any chance of identification. An overview picture from the side and some close-ups of the lugs, the seat cluster, rear dropouts and bottom bracket shell would be very helpful.

Pity you removed the "downtube stubs" as those are very useful if you'll be wanting to do any kind of shifting.

Pics please as they will definately help.
I agree that its a shame the downtube boss's have been removed as even if using brifters or barends you'll need somewhere to mount a cable guide, or even if singlespeeding or fixing it makes it a pain if you want to mount gears later.
Look forward to the pics

Jamie

Re: Daws Bike

I have tried to upload a picture of the frame - but there is a very low file limit, and a block on PDFs, so it isn't easy, and if I get below 512k, it can't read the JPG correctly.

I am amazed on an expert website that no-one has heard of braze on components. I have managed to upload and attach a component readily available on ebay.

Even without brazing, there are bolt on equivalents, which I have used where I haven't had to strip the frame, but given that I have just had it shotblasted, no problem.

Brazing has to be used for any minor repairs if a powder coat finish
is to be used.

Hopefully, the site Admin will advise how to get around a very small image limit.

Re: Daws Bike

johnggold":12gdsz2u said:

I am amazed on an expert website that no-one has heard of braze on components. I have managed to upload and attach a component readily available on ebay.

Click to expand...

Of course we have "heard" of braze on components, but I'm sure most of us don't consider it normal to grind them off and braze them back on as and when we feel like it, which is what you appear to be suggesting. (Apologies if I have misread this.) Most of us are hobbiests, not necessarily experts, based in garages and sheds and are not generally equipped or skilled to do brazing at home.
I think we would leave a component brazed on if we didn't need it, even if the frame was stripped for a refinish, because it would be unnecessary expense to put it back on later.
In my case the downtube bosses were THE place to fit the cable adjusters when I moved to barcons on one bike and brifters on another.

-----
Bruce

Re:

I too have 'heard' of braze ons. I've built up many racing and touring frames, worked in bikeshops etc and can even braze by trade myself. Though this is the first time I think I've ever heard of someone suggesting that you should remove and refix braze on fittings as and when you need them. You may do it once or twice but the tubes will eventually weaken due to the heat and will become a weak spot. If inexperienced with brazing then the chances of doing it repeatedly without blowing through a tube is very remote.
I am assuming its to make the frame singlespeed or fixie otherwise were the boss's damaged?
If not, then why remove the shifter boss's when guides just fit over them.
I'm certainly not an expert but I've been around bikes and built bikes up since
I was kid so this is just my opinion, except the brazing part, I wouldn't say an expert but it was part of my trade for a lot of years.
Be good to see the pics so we can get a year or model for you.

Jamie

Can I ask why the shifter boss's were removed? rather than just assuming its due to not needing shifters, ie; singlespeed or fixie.

Jamie

Jamie,

johnggold":3a0f6gst said:

I had already removed the downtube stubs, because I really don't like downtube gear changing...

Click to expand...

:?
I assume they weren't damaged.

-----
Bruce

Re:

I too have been building bikes for around 40 years. There are only so many bikes you can keep, so frames pass through my hands just once, normally.

The idea of constant changes is ridiculous. I have removed (by grinding) the unwanted stubs which are lateral to the downtube, and am installing guides which are below the downtube in two places, which are unrelated to the stubs, anyway.

Equipment for brazing is dead cheap - mine cost £14.00 from Wickes. It works on a mixed gas canister.

Anyway, you can always buy bolt-ons.

I can't see the point of leaving the stubs - they are dangerous to leave uncovered by levers.

This particular bike is going to have straight handlebars rather than racing bars - the recipient does like racing handlebars - ideally suited to SIS gear levers mounted on them.

Once I've handed it over I won't see it again.

On to the next frame.

I think people are just curious why you just didn't just plonk on some cable stops to the bosses already there as it saves all that grinding and brazing...



As for the model / year, that's difficult as Dawes lost their numbers in a fire quite a while ago. Usually pictures are a help here, the forum restricts full posting until you have 3-5 posts.

Are you going for revoshift?

Cheers

Shaun