Retrobike Forum Index

It is currently Fri Apr 27, 2018 8:25 am

* Login   * Register * Search  * FAQ

Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 4 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Sturmey Archer AG help
PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 2:10 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sat Aug 15, 2009 9:30 pm
Posts: 413
Location: Leighton Buzzard
Just picked up a rusty but complete 1958 Raleigh Dawn Tourist.

It all works, but the AG dynohub is running rough. How do you adjust the cones on these. I had a peek on Sheldon Brown, but can they be adjusted without removing any parts?

Also do the feel a bit rough because of the Dynohub?

 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 2:21 pm 
Old School Grand Master
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:41 pm
Posts: 9123
Location: Cumbria ... ?p=1432848

maybe dead rats can help.

I hated these when I worked in a bike shop, the older mechanic could get on with them, more like a druid at stonehenge though..

They do feel rough as the magnets provide resistance to rolling when spinning the axle as it's how they generate energy.


 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 7:18 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 7:07 pm
Posts: 1472
Location: Cotswolds
The Raleigh bikes of the time were basically for commuters, utility ride-to- work bikes which mainly had absolutely no servicing, and before butyl tubes generally on nearly flat tyres. The gears were rarely adjusted, and if the SA cable broke then it was left in high gear.
When repairs became essential then they were usually in a poor state. The SA used to let water in behind the cog through the bearings over the driver, resulting in being full of brown gunge. The dynohub end suffered from water and grit entering between the magnet and armature (black plastic part with the connecting nuts). This would make the dyno feel very rough and gritty, with scraping noises.
Adjust the hub by tightening the RH cone by hand until firm, and back off one turn or less, depending on where the locking washer fits over the end of the cone, one of 4 positions.
The only way to get the cone out of the LH side is to remove the magnet and armature. My previous stuff referenced above should help.
The cone is obviously fully adjustable, but needs some care due to the magnetic resistance of the dyno. The LH cone is adjusted by the 4 slotted washer, and has a locking nut.
You will need to separate the armature from the magnet to clean it. I never had one demagnetise. Also the bit about tapping down the surface of the armature to give a little more clearance under the magnet helped.

 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 6:18 pm 

Joined: Mon Jun 04, 2012 2:22 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Gillingham, UK
what he said plus, yes the magnet gives it 20 "notches"

Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 4 posts ] 

All times are UTC [ DST ]

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: curzons246, Fr188, garethrl, non-fixie and 32 guests

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  

About Us

Follow Retrobike

Other cool stuff

All content © 2005-2015 Retrobike unless otherwise stated.
Cookies Policy.
bikedeals - the best bike deals in one place
FatCOGS - Fat Chance Owner's Group

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group