rusted 753 frame

I have acquired 1989 Super U Raleigh Fiat team frame, built by Cyfac in Reynolds 753 - no 753 forks though, she came with a pair of Vitus aluminium forks. (Any help with some 753 forks to fit a 57cm frame would be greatly appreciated!)
She's a bit corroded in places, I think she's been stored underwater, but is solid enough to restore and ride, all tubes being whole and the MaxiSports/Campag/Raleigh decals being present, if a little faded.
My problem is particularly that the rear brake cable outer has rusted into the top tube. I'm having slow success in removing a centimetre at a time with WD40, penetrating oil and breaking the rust with feeler guages, but it has been suggested to me that filling the top tube with Coca Cola might do the trick and release the cable completely.
Has anyone tried this, or have you any other solution I might try?
I'm keen to get her on the road as my summer ride, and have a large box of wheels, stem, bars and all the necessary C Record parts to complete the job. She won't be concourse, but she will be absolutely accurate, bar the Michelin tubs!

Vinegar or ascetic acid will help you loosen rusted parts. Much cheaper than WD40.

Any pics?

Vinegar it is then jmgk, I'll give it a go this evening.
I'll get a few pictures taken and add them when I can.

problem is vinegar, coke etc are all corrosive and 753 is thin walled. Dont know if I'd want to coat the internals of my frame with them.

It would be good to see some pictures.

Depends how you feel! I would try soaking it for a while with vinegar, see if it'll loosen up then wash it out thoroughly with water, spray a bit of wd40 down afterwards to displace the water.

If it's the balance between having a frame you can use vs dissolving the rust and risking acid corrosion, it's your choice. I don't think you'll do any damage in a couple of hours. Try on an unobtrusive area first if you're unsure. (eg someone else's bike). It's pretty unlikely to dissolve...

You can also buy WD40 as a liquid from some places, if you feel more comfy doing it that way (meaning not as an aerosol).

Will something like Iron X dissolve the rust and leave the frame intact ?

Shaun

scared by the possibility of even more corrosion, and therefore a genuinely flexible top tube, I am working away at reaming out one end of the top tube and breaking the rust free at the other with cut down sections of a metal tape measure.
I'll investigate Iron X, I'm also looking into FE 123 as a "cure" for rust. I used Jenolite Rusteater on one of my earliest cars which seemed to halt the process, i'll have to look for that again I think.
Does anyone know if J Peter Weigl's Frame Saver is still available, or in hiding anywhere?
I'll post some photos soon as promised previously, and I've started a new thread about the Vitus (I think) alloy fork that came with the frame

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/tools/chain-lubricant/product/frame-saver-10220
http://www.ceeway.com/Framesaver.htm

^ Still available

I'd be interested to hear how frame saver compares to the modern frame treatments, specifically phosphate dipping.

I've not managed to get the cable outer from the top tube yet, I think my next option is reaming it out at one end and seeing what happens. If that doesn't work I could be grinding off the cable entry points to see how much I can free it up. A frame builder will be the next stop after that!
I've created a user gallery with pictures of the frame and the Vitus Chrono Fourche - if indeed it is such a thing, I'd welcome any thoughts/suggestions.
Also, has anyone ever seen another of the Reynolds Service de Course decals as attached at the base of the seat tube?