Frame pump advice

Re:

CO2 = great, but if you find the tyre aint seated properly, you have no control of stopping and re-seating the tyre - at worst, it blows off the rim and destroys the tube, at best, the cartridge is empty and youre walking.

Pumps, the problem with retro pumps is, if they are plastic bodied, with age the plastic develops hairline cracks (invisible to the eye) lengthwise with the grain which mean the pump lacks pressure. If you can find something with a metal body go for it. (also pertinent to those mini pumps)

If you fit a frame pump under the top tube, you need a pip on the back of the head tube to stop it sliding down the head tube to the headtube/downtube intersection. Functionally, this is ok, aesthetically its not
 
Re:

Don't even bother, most frame pumps won't get you enough air pressure to do anything other than limp home. Get a couple of C02 cartridges and be done with it.

I use a 20 yo plastic Zefal, which is capable of putting 100psi in a tyre fairly quickly, and never runs out. Whereas CO2 cartridges can't be be used for a 2nd puncture... What happens to used CO2 cartridges? Landfill?
 
Re:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Styl ... ctupt=true

That’s pretty much the pump I was thinking of, remember my parents old bikes having them, is metal too so should spray up nicely. Quality of pumping coming second to aesthetics in this case.

Planning on using the frame to upgrade my pub single speed from a gas pipe Raleigh Nova but also have the potential to get it eroica ready just in case. Might as well spray up some mudguards while I’m at it!
 
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For a pump like that, (rather than a frame-fit), I'd go for 2x pump pegs on the front centreline of the LF seatstay.
Nicely tucked away from feet, brakes and panniers.

Under the TT just gets in the way of carrying, shouldering or handling the bike, specially on a touring bike.
On the ST also gets in the way and reduces your bottle location options.

All the best,
 

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More involved craft method with the lovely tapered Takahashi ones:

  • -Piece of steel flat about 6" long with a slot cut in one end.
    -Make the slot the right size to fit half way down the tapered shaft.
    -Rest the other end of the flat onto the other seatstay.
    -Weight of the flat keeps the peg in place as you braze it.

Quick and easy production method with the cheaper 'bent nail' style ones (or the Takahashi):

  • -Cut a small length of brazing rod, set this aside on the bench
    -Hold the peg with some needle-nosed locking pliers, and dip it into the flux paste to coat the end
    -Dab the fluxed end of the peg onto the rod clipping to pick it up
    -Hold the peg on the tube in position
    -Heat the lot while pressing down on the rod to stop it moving as the water boils out of the flux.
    -As it gets up to heat, you'll feel it melt.
    -Push down and position the peg and remove the heat.

For both versions and methods, it's well worth filing the underside of the peg to fit the tube profile.
This not only looks better, and keeps it in line, but it helps to stop the peg trying to turn as you braze.

All the best,
 

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Re:

Awesome, thanks. I’ve got some of those Takahashi ones from Ceeway, they seem to be the only items from there without a curved base, good tips though.
Seems like the hard bit will be getting the second one to line up with the first!

Just need to get the pump and find a bit of time now.

Here’s the frame before and after a sandblast, didn’t know Suntour made dropouts.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/157053716@N06/R3UDkk
 
Just file a profile on the underside in line with the peg, which matches the seatstay shape.
That way it all lines up pretty naturally.
You can fine tune the alignment of the peg part later as they are malleable steel and have that thin neck.

All the best,
 
Re: Re:

Southwestslacker1":1plrc0qc said:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Style-Retro-16-Chrome-Steel-Bicycle-Hand-Pump-Chrome-Pegs-LEroica/331325156300?hash=item4d2484abcc:g:CGIAAOSwRLZULCyn:rk:4:pf:1&frcectupt=true

That’s pretty much the pump I was thinking of, remember my parents old bikes having them, is metal too so should spray up nicely. Quality of pumping coming second to aesthetics in this case.
steel is heavy - maybe not too important if its a pubber. Chrome may be prone to rust both inside and outside the barrel.
what about the alloy ones that have the red and blue rubber bands on them? I have one of those and it works well and is about 40 yrs old
 
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Bluemels?:

If you can find a long un-dented one they do polish up beautifully with a bit of T-Cut.

Fit one of these and you don't need the hose:


All the best,
 

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